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Yarrow health benefits includes quick wound healing, fighting inflammation, gastrointestinal remedy, fighting infection, reducing scarring, hormonal balance, fighting mastitis and managing blood pressure. Other benefits includes treating asthma, curing cold and treating skin infections.

What is Yarrow?

The Latin name for Yarrow is Achillea millefolium, named after the Greek hero Achilles. This herb has an intriguing and exciting history. This herb was used to heal the ancient Greek warriors in battlefields; this humble herb was believed to have powerful healing powers.

Yarrow has been a part of divination rituals since ages, these rituals were carried out by the Chinese to find love, to manipulate dreams and in their waking rituals. Yarrow was a part of the I.Ching ritual that includes 64 long straight sticks of yarrow used in reading the hexagrams to perform divination.

Herbalists in Western Europe have been using yarrow as part of healing practices and believe that it facilitates the healing by restraining the flow of blood to a wound.

Fun Facts:

  • Yarrow is believed to have magic that works on the principles of intentional restraints.
  • It is considered feminine and associated with Venus in astrology
  • The element of yarrow is water

Yarrow is a flowering plant that has been a part of modern medicine for the treatment of female hormonal imbalance and digestion. The uses for this humble plant are many and it has been a part of the medical world since ancient times to treat colds, fevers, menstruation problems, eating disorders and digestion. It comes from the family of chamomile and chrysanthemums, it is actually an herb, but is mostly used as a vegetable. It has a much similar flavor to tarragon and can be added to food the same way tarragon is.

It is native to the northern hemisphere and grows freely as a weed in chalk lands or grasslands. The benefits of yarrow are many and to understand the details it needs a whole book dedicated to it, however, here are 11 reasons why yarrow is the herb you are looking for.

1. Wound Healing
Wound healing has been primarily associated with yarrow due to its scientific name Achillea millefolium being derived from the name of the mythical war hero of ancient Greece, Achilles. It is believed that Achilles and his soldiers used yarrow to treat their wounds and restrain bleeding.

The chemical compound achilliene found in yarrow is responsible for its healing power. This facilitates the coagulation of blood, which leads to the rapid closing of the wound. It also protects the wound from infections and numbs the pain. It was also used during wars to heal burn wounds that were caused by napalm. This is what gave it the title of “Herb of the Military”.

2. Anti-inflammatory Properties
It’s extracts contain flavonoids and sesquiterpene lactones that calm inflammation that may be the cause of many illnesses such as a sore throat, arthritis, respiratory issues and stomach-aches. Inflammation can occur in any organ, the addition of it to the daily diet can be helpful in preventing inflammation. There are some antidotes for venom and drugs that use yarrow as an ingredient.

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3. Gastrointestinal Remedy
It has antiseptic and antispasmodic properties, the involuntary spasms that are a result of digestion issues in the lower intestine can be treated through yarrow consumption. Conditions such as leaky gut, diarrhea, flatulence, and stomach cramps can be treated using it. The plant-based flavonoids that it contains are responsible for relaxing the muscles and reducing spasms.

4. Antiseptic
Yarrow essential oils and the plant itself is the most powerful antiseptic known to man, it is a natural disinfectant and its medicinal properties for fighting infections are unmatched by any other conventional remedy in the market. Not only does it heal external wounds it also prevents internal infections as it contains antimicrobial properties. Yarrow activates the blood platelets in the affected area, which form a protective layer to keep the body protected from infection-causing bacteria. Yarrow essential oil has such potent antiseptic effects that it kills the bacteria completely when applied to the wound.

5. Reduces Scarring
It is an ingredient prized by the cosmetic industry as it has excellent scar removal properties. It not only speeds up the healing process, but also reduces the appearance of scars. There are many ways yarrow can be used to heal scars, either by oral consumption or by using it in your skincare routines. Its anti-inflammatory properties also calm the irritation and redness surrounding the wounds.

6. Hormonal Balance
Hormonal imbalance is usually a short-term condition that comes hand in hand with the PMS cycle; however, this is not always the case. Hormonal imbalance can be a lasting condition and can cause severe health issues. Adding yarrow to your diet can help balance the hormones in your body. Hormonal imbalance can sometimes be the reason you not getting a regular menstrual cycle, this condition is known as amenorrhea. It can be combined with other herbs such as partridgeberry to treat this condition. It is emmenagogue, which increases the blood flow in the pelvic area, encouraging timely menstruation.

7. Mastitis
Mastitis is a breast infection that women who are feeding new-borns often experience. To increase blood circulation in this area, yarrow is used to relieve pain and calm the inflammation in the breasts. Its antiseptic properties will also help fight off the infection and treat the condition.

8. Blood Pressure Management
It has vasodilatory and anti-inflammatory properties that facilities adequate flow of blood throughout the body. It also calms and relaxes the nerves to lower blood pressure. Research shows that yarrow helps lower blood pressure in patients suffering from hypertension. Medical studies conducted on animals showed that administering it’s extract in hyperactive cardiovascular conditions can be extremely beneficial.

9. Asthma
Asthma can be an extremely uncomfortable and miserable condition; yarrow has calming properties that facilitate oxygen and blood circulation, and does the same for the respiratory system, easing the symptoms of asthma. It has bronchodilatory effects that are helpful in relaxing the bronchi and calming the inflammatory airways.

10. Curing Colds
Yarrow tea has been a go-to treatment for colds and mild fever since ancient times; it basically dilates the pores and blood vessels to remove the toxins from the body through perspiration. It calms the inflammation and its antiseptic capabilities fight infections and viruses. It also calms bouts of coughing and is an excellent natural remedy to treat flu and the common cold.




Vertical gardening is another branch of the many faces of vegetable container gardening.
The vertical vegetable garden layout is a particularly good idea if you do not have a large footprint area on the ground where you can grow things.

Growing Upwards!

Vertical growing is particularly suited to climbing plants such as runner beans, French beans, peas, squash, cucumbers and courgettes, melons and even marrows. Despite some of these crops being heavy, such as marrows and squashes, it’s still perfectly possible to grow them in a vertical garden. The secret is building in the support structure strong enough to support the weight of the fruits.

This can be done in many ways depending on the plants being grown. A common vertical growing technique is to attach a trellis to a wall immediately above the container where the plants are growing, and to train the plants by weaving the stems into the trellis as it grows.

Another common and easy method of vertical growing for things like beans is to make 1a kind-of wigwam shape with bamboo sticks stuck into the container, and tied at the top.

Ready-constructed tomato cages or spirals are a good example of the type of supports that are readily available on the market for your tomato plants. I have recently been let to believe that tying tomato plants to straight bamboo sticks can hinder the growth of the plant and give lesser crop, so it may be worth looking into these alternatives.

Communal Wall Method

You could have a vegetable garden layout featuring a selection of containers and pots bunched together that contain climbing plants.

You can make a free-standing climbing wall structure simply by using two upright poles joined together with either wire mesh, garden netting or lengths of wood or bamboo.

The structure can be moved to a position above the pots so they can all climb onto it from both sides.

It’s best to position the wall so that it takes the best advantage of the sun as it tracks across the sky throughout the day.

In these two pictures I have constructed a very basic pergola-style framework consisting of some lengths of wood. The two sides running North to South have nets attached for the plants to grow on, the other two sides will be left open as a walk-through.

The interesting thing about this vertical gardening arrangement is the way the nets1have been applied.

At the base of both walls I have added spacers (see red circle), allowing me to attach not one, but two seperate climbing nets; thus effectively giving me two separate growing walls on each side of the pergola. That’s four growing walls in total, effectively doubling my growing space and yields!

The pergola is spaced wide enough to enable both climbing walls facing East to get the sun during the first 6-8 hours of the day, and both climbing walls facing West to get the sun for the rest of the day.

The same vertical frame 5 months later
This is a picture of the same vertical frame taken mid-growing season. The runner beans and climbing french beans growing from builders buckets placed at the foot of the frame, have taken to it beautifully and are now providing a good healthy crop.


A place for hanging plants

In addition to doubling up on the growing space with the double net arrangement, I also purposely left overhangs in place when constructing the framework. From these I intend to hang my upside down tomato plants.

Growing Downwards
Vertical gardening is not just restricted to plants growing upwards! Potatoes are a great vegetable to grow in containers, and they, of course, grow downwards. Each planted potato tuber should produce twenty or more new potatoes in about four months.

All you need is a rubble sack, old bin, or a container at least 10 inches tall. Just fill with about 4 inches of soil, lay on your potatoes and cover with another 5 inches of soil. You can purchase specially designed vertical potato planters that have little doorways to give you access to the crop.

Another way is to use a circular containment area made from bamboo sheeting and lined with scrap cardboard. At the end of the season, simply cut the sheeting away and you will have a stack of soil full of potatoes to harvest.

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Hanging Downwards
Apart from climbing plants, vertical gardening can also be employed when growing2almost any other kind of plant, although growing root plants like carrots and turnips might prove to be a little more tricky.

Hanging baskets, vertical pod-type bags and containers also fall under the umbrella of vertical gardening, or even growing your plants upside down for a bigger higher yielding crop. You can buy or make long tube-like plastic or canvas bags, fill them with soil and cut multiple holes into the sides where you can easily grow a whole host of foods including among others, strawberry’s, lettuce, cabbage and cherry tomatoes.

Use Your Airspace!

Another great tip here is to realise that hanging planters do not have to be limited to being hung from a wall. You can suspend a wire or rope between two suitable anchor points, such as a tree and a wall, and hang your planters along the length of rope, making great use of the available air space.

The prop is to allow you to push them up out of the way, but just like an old-fashioned washing line, you can lower them down for watering.

You may need to cover them with netting to stop the birds eating your crop – depending on what you are growing.

Obviously you’ll need to take into consideration the shadows they may cast over other plants and position accordingly.

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The 15 Cancer Causing Foods You Probably Eat Every Day

The 15 Cancer Causing Foods You Probably Eat Every Day

We probably do not think the food we are eating every day might be cancer causing. However  there is a clear connection between food and cancer prevention.

As cancer became the plague of our modern age, a lot of research has been done on its prevention. With many reports on food and cancer prevention available nowadays, we want to inform you about the most cancer causing foods. One part of the prevention plan is avoiding such foods, some other tips on the prevention we will discuss at the end of the article. So keep reading and stay healthy!

15. Canned Tomatoes

Though fresh organic tomatoes help the body resist infections and actually fight cancer, canned tomatoes are carcinogenic (cancer causing) food. Mostly because the lining of food cans contains Bisphenol A (BPA) which is considered a harmful substance by Canadian Cancer Society.

Tomatoes are especially bad in cans because they are acidic which promotes leaching of chemical BPA out of the lining into canned tomatoes. Another reason this unassuming food isn’t as healthy as we think is that tomatoes are heavily sprayed with pesticides. Since the skin of tomatoes is thin and absorbent, it is now included in Dirty Dozen food list. So it is better to consume tomatoes fresh and organically grown.

14. Sodas

Sodas have no nutritional value, contain high amounts of phosphates, and tremendous amounts of white sugar and chemicals. They can easily deplete the body of nutrients and can cause weight gain and promote obesity. Sodas often contain artificial flavoring, artificial coloring and artificial sweeteners, all of which are cancer causing substances [2]. Among artificial sweeteners, saccharin is the greatest concern.

Research studies have linked it with cancer in laboratory animals as a cancer initiator and promoter. Another sweetener, aspartame is widely used in soft drinks. Furthermore, research studies found it caused brain tumors in lab animals.

Sodas also happen to be quite acidic, and when packaged in aluminum cans, can leak quite high amounts of aluminum. Aluminum itself has been connected with weakened gastrointestinal tract and with Alzheimer’s disease, there are increased aluminum levels in the brain tissue.

13. Farmed Fish

We tend to think that eating fish is very healthy, especially cold water ones like salmon because of high omega-3 content. The omega-3 essential fatty acids found in saltwater fish come from a diet of deep-water plankton and smaller fish. Farm-raised species of fish do not have such high omega-3 content. That is because farmed fish are usually fed an unnatural diet.

Also, they are contaminated with antibiotics, pesticides, chemicals and other cancer causing substances. These farmed fish have been shown to have higher levels of polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs), a group of industrial chemicals. Synthetic pigments (canthaxanthans) are often added to the fish so that it gets its pink color, while in the wild it happens naturally [3].

Wild-caught fish is still definitely the best choice. Though nowadays even wild-caught fish can be contaminated with chemicals like mercury.

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12. Processed Meat

Processed meats include bacon, sausages, hot dogs, deli meats, beef jerk, ham. These meats have been modified to change their taste or to extend shelf life, to do this the main methods of processing are smoking, curing, adding salt and preservatives.

Recently the World Health Organization (WHO)’s International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) announced that consumption of processed meat is “carcinogenic to humans”. Twenty-two experts from 10 countries reviewed more than 800 studies to reach their conclusions. They found that eating 50 grams of processed meat every day increased the risk of colon cancer by 18%. That’s the equivalent of about 4 strips of bacon or 1 hot dog. Cancer causing chemicals form during meat processing. These include N-nitroso compounds and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs).

11. Microwave Popcorn

While popcorn is so convenient snack, you should be aware of negative health impacts of microwave popcorn. The bag inside is lined with a non-stick coating, and the chemical used in the lining, as well as in Teflon coating, decomposes, producing a dangerous compound called perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA).

PFOA is a known carcinogen, which is toxic to the liver, immune system, and affects hormones as well as altering thyroid hormone levels, studies suggest. This chemical has been associated with increased risk of certain cancers, including liver, bladder, kidney and prostate cancer.

As for the popcorn itself, it can be a healthy snack if it is non-GMO organic air popped (not microwave) product. When air-popped and prepared the right way (not smothered in unhealthy fats, artificial flavorings and high amount of sugar and salt) it is naturally low in calories and high in fiber.

10. Hydrogenated Oils

During the process of hydrogenation, a canister of hydrogen gas is positioned below a vat of oil, and under controlled circumstances, the hydrogen gas is allowed to bubble up into the oil. In this way, the oil is soaking up more hydrogen, and unsaturated fat is transformed into saturated ones [2]. This transformation produces a semi-solid fat (most margarines, vegetable oils), and the shelf life is extended. Business benefit is great but the health cost is significant!

Hydrogenation transforms some of unsaturated fatty acids into trans-fat. Even the FDA has stated that trans fats are not safe for consumption. They increase blood cholesterol levels, as well as the risk of atherosclerosis (hardening of arteries). They can act as irritants, generating free radicals, which increases the risk of cardiovascular disease and cancer.

The products with hydrogenated oils include margarine, most chips, vegetable oils, and many manufactured baked goods, such as crackers, cookies, etc. The natural food brands that avoid hydrogenated fats are a better choice.

RECOMMENDED: The Best Natural Home Remedies for Cold and Fever

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9. Potato Chips

Being one of the most popular snacks, potato chips are cheap, tasty and very convenient to munch on. However, they usually contain artificial flavors and colors and numerous preservatives. They are very salty and their high sodium levels can cause high blood pressure issues for many people. Moreover, potato chips are high in fat and calories and can help to gain excess weight. They are also full of trans fat, which are really bad for your health, reports say, and can cause high cholesterol in most people.

Potato chips are prepared at very high temperatures, which creates Acrylamide, cancer causing chemical. According to American Cancer Society and European Food Safety Authority, acrylamide is a carcinogen. Evidence from animal studies shows that acrylamide can damage DNA and cause certain types of cancer.

Healthy alternatives to potato chips can surely be dehydrated apple or banana chips. Try them, they are also tasty and crunchy!

8. Alcohol

You may be surprised to find out that drinking alcohol increases your risk of developing many types of cancer, including cancer of the breast, colon and rectum, esophagus, larynx, liver, mouth and pharynx, as per Canadian Cancer Society. These risks are increased when alcohol use is combined with cigarette smoking.

Alcohol abuse is also associated with poor diet and many nutritional deficiencies. In our bodies, alcohol (ethanol) is converted into a toxic cancer causing chemical called acetaldehyde. It can cause cancer by damaging DNA and stopping our cells from repairing this damage. The International Agency for Research on Cancer has classified acetaldehyde formed as a result of drinking alcohol as the cause of cancer, along with alcohol itself.

Though the occasional drink may be even beneficial and lead to a reduced risk of heart disease, excessive drinking has a detrimental effect on your health. Studies suggest, that the less alcohol you drink, the lower the risk of cancer.





7. Artificial Sweeteners

Artificial sweeteners are usually used to minimize obesity or help regulate blood sugar in diabetes. However, studies show that artificial sweeteners do not really help weight loss in most people, but actually promote weight gain. Another research shows that aspartame, in fact, worsens insulin sensitivity to a greater degree than sugar. And artificial sweeteners make you crave even more sweets as well.

Among all synthetic artificial sweeteners, aspartame (NutraSweet) is most widely used. It can actually be a neurological irritant and can affect the user’s mood and energy. Studies have found intake of aspartame to be associated with migraine headaches and increased risk of brain tumors in animals.

A better choice would be to use a moderate amount of natural sweeteners like maple syrup, honey, molasses, stevia.

6. Refined White Flour

Nearly everyone nowadays knows that white flour is not good for your health. It can encourage weight gain and is a main cause of obesity when overeaten. Refinining grains and flours creates the loss of nutrients and lowers fiber content which can lead to a variety of digestive problems such as constipation, but do you know that bleaching (whitening of flours) makes it really bad for you?

Chemical treatments to the flour to make it white results in the formation of alloxan in the flour. Alloxan is a toxic contaminant causing diabetes. It is actually used in labs for causing diabetes in healthy animals so that the researchers can experiment with treatments for diabetes. White processed flour has a high glycemic index which quickly raises the blood sugar level. Cancer cells feed mostly on the sugars in the bloodstream. So avoid refined carbohydrates such as white flour and white sugar, as they can encourage cancer growth.

As an alternative option, there are many delicious whole-grain products now available, including breads, cereals, pastas, cookies, crackers.

5. Refined White Sugar

Excess sugar consumption can suppress the immune system, upset the body’s mineral balance, cause hyperactivity, anxiety, fatigue, weight gain, depression, and arthritis. As sugar weakens the immune system, it can increases cancer risk. Sugars feed harmful intestinal yeasts, toxic organisms, fungi and all forms of cellular cancer.

Though glucose is required by our brain and every cell for normal functioning, researchers say sugar feeds cancers. Especially those highly refined products are bad, such as white sugar and high-fructose corn syrup. The reason for that is that they are metabolized by cancer cells most quickly and easily.

To sweeten your meal, the healthier option would be using a moderate amount of natural sugar, such as honey or pure maple syrup or simply sweeten with fruits.

4. Pickled or Salt-cured Foods

Highly salted pickled foods may influence stomach and digestive lining. Furthermore, these foods can be very high in nitrates and nitrites. Nitrates and nitrites may convert to cancer causing nitrosamines in the body, which damage DNA cells.

Studies suggest, that people whose traditionally diet includes lots of salted-cured or pickled foods are more susceptible to stomach and nasopharyngeal cancers.

As a healthy option, you can make fermented (pickled) foods at home controlling the amount of salt you are using.

3. GMO Products

GMOs are genetically modified products, which are created by inserting DNA from another species. They do this in order to enhance the desired traits of a product. For example, tomatoes are modified to increase shelf life and resistance to pests and some protein genes are added to zucchini to protect against viruses.

The research links GMOs to cancer, liver and kidney damage and severe hormonal disruption. Though there are still debates on this topic.

Unfortunately, there is no requirement to state that the product is GMO on food labels in Canada and US. So one of the best strategies would be buy organic foods and meats from grass-fed animals. You can also look for labels such as NON-GMO or GMO-free products.

2. “Dirty” Fruits and Vegetables

“Dirty” fruits and vegetables are those that are most contaminated with pesticides. Canadian Cancer Association says that the research suggests a possible connection of pesticides with cancers such as non-Hodgkin lymphoma, multiple myeloma, chronic lymphocytic leukemia, and prostate, testicular, pancreatic, lung and non-melanoma skin cancers.

According to the studies of pesticides and childhood cancer, there is a possible connection with leukemia and non-Hodgkin lymphoma.

You can protect yourself and your family by knowing “The Dirty Dozen list” and buying organic at least the most contaminated as much as possible.

1. Meat Raised with Hormones and Antibiotics

Various hormones are used to increase weight of animals, while antibiotics are used to compensate for bad conditions and to prevent any illness, some of them promote growth as well. The use of hormones and antibiotics in food-producing animals has provoked many concerns about their effect on human health.

There are a number of studies that suggest that hormones and antibiotics in meat are not safe for consumption. In 1989, The European Union banned the sales of hormone-treated US meat in member countries. On top of that, most of estrogenic hormones are carcinogenic (cancer causing) in humans, especially in women .

The safer option here would be to enjoy organic or grass-fed/pasture-raised meat. It reduces your exposure to traces of antibiotics and artificial hormones that are given to conventionally raised animals. It also reduces exposure to toxins from pesticides that might accumulate in animal fat.

PLEASE NOTE: Consuming wholesome, natural, and organic foods, ideally grown locally and eaten fresh, has long-range benefits for our environment, our bodies and our health.

Though good nutrition is very important we should never forget that some other factors may contribute to the disease. Environmental, psychological, social, emotional factors are also very important. It is vital that we keep ourselves physically and psychologically fit through exercise and positive attitude. Regular exercise definitely improves attitude and energy for life, as well as supports the immune system. Good stress management, relaxation, and a strong healthy immune system are also essentials of the prevention plan.



  1. AmeriBev 6 September, 2018 at 13:27 Reply

    Contrary to the claims here, worldwide government safety authorities verify the safety of non-alcoholic beverages with sugar and with low-calorie sweeteners. Science does not support the claim that these products uniquely cause cancer of any kind – or other adverse health issues for that matter.

    Additionally, low- and no-calorie sweeteners and the beverages that use them have proven to be an effective tool for weight loss and management. In fact, a study published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition in 2013 confirms that beverages that contain these ingredients can be an important tool in helping reduce calories, and also helped with sweet cravings. Moreover, a two-part study published in the journal Obesity showed that dieters who drank low- and no-calorie beverages lose as much, if not more, weight (and were able to keep more off) than those who were restricted to water only. Learn more about the safety of these ingredients here:



See our list of fall chores to prepare your garden for winter—and ensure a beautiful and vibrant spring! We’ve covered vegetables, herbs, berries, perennials, roses, trees, and shrubs.


You can postpone the inevitable (that is, winter) for a while by covering your vegetables with old sheets or bedspreads on cold nights, but the declining light and chilly daytime temperatures will naturally bring plant growth to a halt. Get tips for protecting your garden from frost.

  • Root crops like carrots, turnips, beets, rutabagas and parsnips can remain in the garden after a frost and still be removed in good condition later, but get them dug and stored before the ground freezes. Some crops such as parsnips taste better when they mature near freezing tempeatures for 2 to 4 weeks. 
  • Potatoes can also stay in the soil, but it is important they be dug and removed from the garden almost immediately and not left on the soil surface for any period of time. So dig and remove the potatoes to a dry, warm area out of the sun to begin the process of letting the skin toughen up for storage. Dry in a single layer and turn periodically. This takes about two weeks. Carefully remove soil, but do not wash the potatoes. Their skins will toughen for longer winter storage.
  • Some greens like kale and collards actually become a bit sweeter with a light frost. Ball cabbages and swiss chart can withstand light frosts, but if outside leaves get damaged or tough, just peel them away.Leaf lettuces, however, cannot handle the frosts.
  • Pull up tomato, squash, pea, bean, and other plants. If they’re disease-free, compost them. If any are diseased, either burn them or discard separately. Pull up and put away the stakes.
  • Before the ground gets too hard, remove all weeds and debris and eliminate overwintering sites for insects and disease. Check our Pest Library for tips on preventing the most common pests in your garden.




  • Gently till the soil to expose any insects who plan to overwinter; this will reduce pest troubles in the spring and summer. This is one of the most effective ways to reduce populations of Japanese beetles, whose grubs live and overwinter in the ground.
  • Once most of the garden soil is exposed, add a layer of compost, leaves, manure (if you have it), and lime (if you need it). Gently till into the soil.
  • Another option is to sow cover crops, such as winter rye, to improve your soil. See our article on Cover Crops for the U.S. and Cover Crops for Canada.
  • If some areas have hopelessly gone to weeds, cover them with black plastic or a layer of cardboard and leave it in place over the winter and into the spring to kill sprouting seeds.

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  • Sage is a perennial in most areas and does not need special treatment for the winter. Before frost stops its growth, cut a branch or two to dry and use in stuffing at Thanksgiving! (Try our delicious stuffed turkey recipe with sage.)
  • Rosemary is a tender evergreen perennial that should be sheltered outside (Zone 6) or potted up and brought inside (Zone 5 and colder) for the winter.
  • Thyme is fairly indestructible. A perennial, it will go dormant in the fall, then revive by itself in the spring.
  • Parsley, a biennial, will withstand a light frost. In Zone 5 or colder, cover it on cold nights. It has a long taproot and does not transplant well.
  • Chives are hardy perennials. Dig up a clump and pot it, then let the foliage die down and freeze for several weeks. Bring the pot indoors to a sunny, cool spot. Water well and harvest chives throughout the winter.

READ MORE:Build a $300 Underground Greenhouse For Year-Round Gardening




  • In early to mid-fall, prune summer-bearing raspberries, leaving six of the strongest brown canes for every 1 foot of your row.
  • Prune fall-bearing raspberries ruthlessly, cutting them to the ground after they have borne fruit. New canes will come up in the spring.
  • Plant blackberries in the fall and mound up the soil around the canes to prevent hard frosts from heaving them out of the ground.
  • Cover strawberry beds with straw or hay.


  • Water your perennials and flowering shrubs in the fall; they will thank you for it this winter.
  • Once the ground has frozen hard, cut perennials back to 3 inches and mulch them with a thick layer of leaves or straw.
  • If you plan to put in a new flower bed next spring, cover that area now with mulch or heavy plastic to discourage emergent growth when the ground warms up in the spring.
  • Before a heavy snowfall, cover pachysandra with a mulch of pine needles several inches deep.
  • Move potted chrysanthemums to a sheltered spot when their flowers fade. Water well and cover with a thick layer of straw to overwinter them.
  • When a frost blackens the leaves of dahlias, gladioli, and cannas, carefully dig them up and let them dry indoors on newspaper for a few days. Then pack them in Styrofoam peanuts, dry peat moss, or shredded newspaper and store in a dark, humid spot at 40° to 50°F until spring.

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  • Geraniums (pelargoniums) are South African in origin, and there they have a three-month dormant period during winter’s excessive dryness. They need to be kept well watered before going into dormancy.
  • In the old days, we had cool cellars with dirt floors that were dark and moist. Our mothers shook the dirt off geranium roots and hung them upside down in bundles. In spring, they were cut back and potted up, and performed nicely.
  • If you have a cool place in your house (around 50°F), it is possible to overwinter your geraniums by keeping them in their pots and giving them very little water.
  • In spring, bring them into a warm place and water them heavily. When they start to show buds, repot them and prune heavily.
  • They will do best in plastic or glazed pots with very good drainage. (You can overwinter geraniums as houseplants without letting them go dormant, but they will be deprived of the rest they like.)

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  • You may water roses regularly through the fall; no need to fertilize starting 6 weeks before the first frost.
  • Remove any dead or diseased canes.
  • After the first frost, mulch plants with compost or leaves to just above the swollen point where the stem joins the rootstock.
  • In areas where winter temperatures are severe, enclose low-growing roses with a sturdy cylinder of chicken wire or mesh and fill enclosure with chopped leaves, compost, mulch, dry wood chips, or pine needles.
  • Before daily temperatures drop well below freezing, carefully pull down the long canes of climbing and tea roses, lay them flat on the ground, and cover them with pine branches or mulch.


  • Protect small trees or shrubs from extreme cold by surrounding them with a cylinder of snow fencing and packing straw or shredded leaves inside the cylinder.
  • Inspect your trees. Remove any broken limbs, making a clean cut close to the trunk.
  • If you’re planning to buy a live Christmas tree this season, dig the hole where you’ll plant it before the ground freezes. Store the soil you remove in the garage or basement, where it won’t freeze. Place a board over the hole and mark the location so that you can find it if it snows.

ALSO READ:28 Things You Must Know to Have a Successful Winter Garden



  • Empty all of your outdoor containers to keep them from cracking during the winter. Store them upside down.
  • Hang a bucket over a hook in your toolshed or garage and use it to store hose nozzles and sprinkler attachments.
  • On a mild day, run your garden hose up over a railing or over the shed to remove all the water. Then roll it up and put it away.
  • Mow your lawn as late into the fall as the grass grows. Grass left too long when deep snow arrives can develop brown patches in the spring.
  • Don’t leave fallen leaves on the lawn. Rake onto a large sheet or tarp, then drag to your compost pile in thin layers mixed with old hay and other material. Or, rake the leaves into loose piles and run the mower over them to turn them into mulch for perennial and bulb beds. Get more tips on what to do with fall leaves.
  • Cover your compost pile with plastic or a thick layer of straw before snow falls.
  • Drain the fuel tank on your lawn mower or any other power equipment. Consult the owner’s manual for other winter maintenance.
  • Scrub down and put away your tools. Some folks oil their tools with vegetable oil to avoid rust. Find out how to care for your gardening tools.
  • Check out our list of fall garden chores to make sure you have everything done before the winter hits!

We hope these tips will help your garden survive winter and thrive in spring! Please share your own advice or ask any questions below!


Pass The Dessert : The Best 10 Old Fashioned Thanksgiving Recipes From Turkey to Dessert

Pass The Dessert : The Best 10 Old Fashioned Thanksgiving Recipes From Turkey to Dessert



  • 1/2 cup diced peeled cored ripe Bartlett pear
  • 6 tablespoons medium-dry Riesling
  • 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon chopped shallot
  • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 1/2 pound haricots verts or small green beans, trimmed
  • 6 cups (packed) baby spinach leaves (about 6 ounces)
  • 3 ripe Bartlett pears, quartered, cored, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
  • 3/4 cup crumbled blue cheese
  • 3/4 cup walnuts, toasted


Purée diced pear, Riesling, lemon juice, shallot and Dijon mustard in food processor until smooth. With machine still running, gradually add vegetable oil through feed tube and blend mixture until smooth. Transfer to bowl. Season dressing to taste with salt and pepper.

Cook green beans in large pot of boiling salted water until just tender but still firm to bite. Drain well. Transfer beans to medium bowl filled with ice water and cool thoroughly. Drain well. (Dressing and beans can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover separately and refrigerate.)

Toss green beans, spinach and sliced pears in large bowl with enough Riesling dressing to coat. Divide salad among plates. Sprinkle with crumbled blue cheese and toasted walnuts.



  • For turkey:
  • 1 10-ounce jar crabapple jelly
  • 3/4 cup plus 6 tablespoons (2 1/4 sticks) butter
  • 1/3 cup frozen apple juice concentrate, thawed
  • 4 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
  • 12 ounces mushrooms, quartered
  • 1 large onion, coarsely chopped
  • 1 large carrot, coarsely chopped
  • 1 22- to 24-pound turkey, neck cut into 4 pieces
  • 10 cups (about) canned low-salt chicken broth
  • For gravy
  • 1/4 cup all purpose flour
  • 3 cups (about) canned low-salt chicken broth
  • 8 bacon slices, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
  • 1/4 cup applejack or other apple brandy (optional)


Make turkey:
Stir jelly, 1/2 cup butter, apple juice concentrate and 2 tablespoons tarragon in small saucepan over medium heat until butter and jelly melt. Remove glaze from heat. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room temperature and rewhisk before using.)
Set rack at lowest position in oven and preheat to 375°F. Place small rack in center of large roasting pan. Melt 1/4 cup butter in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms, onion and carrot; saut
 until dark brown, about 12 minutes. Sprinkle vegetables and turkey neck pieces around rack in pan.

Stir remaining 6 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons tarragon in heavy small saucepan until butter melts. Rinse turkey inside and out; pat dry with paper towels. Place turkey on rack in pan. Starting at neck end, slide hand between skin and breast meat to loosen skin. Brush 3 tablespoons tarragon butter over breast meat under skin. If stuffing turkey, spoon stuffing loosely into main cavity. Brush remaining tarragon butter over outside of turkey. Sprinkle turkey with salt and pepper.

Tuck wing tips under turkey; tie legs together to hold shape.
Roast turkey 45 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F; add 1 cup broth to pan. Cover turkey loosely with foil. Roast until thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh registers 180°F., adding 1 cup broth and basting with pan juices every 1/2 hour and brushing with 1/3 cup glaze twice during last 2 hours, about 4 1/4 hours longer if unstuffed or 4 3/4 hours longer if stuffed.
Transfer turkey to platter. Tent with foil; let stand 1/2 hour. Reserve pan juices.

Make gravy:
Mix 1/2 cup glaze and flour in small bowl to blend. Strain pan juices into large measuring cup, pressing on solids; spoon off fat. Add enough broth to measure 6 cups.
Sauté bacon in heavy large saucepan over medium heat until crisp. Pour off fat. Add broth mixture to saucepan and bring to boil. Whisk in glaze-flour mixture and tarragon, then applejack. Simmer until thickened to sauce, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

The Lost Ways…a true story about our grandparents days!

Once Upon a Time in AmericaAre you ready to turn back the clocks to the 1800s for up to three years?Our grandfathers and great-grandfathers were the last generation to practice the basic things that we call survival skills now. ….Watch this video and you will find many interesting things!




  • 1 24-ounce loaf sliced buttermilk bread, crust trimmed, bread cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 11 cups)
  • 1 pound bacon slices, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  • 7 cups chopped leeks (white and pale green parts only)
  • 1 1/2 pounds button mushrooms, coarsely chopped
  • 12 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, caps coarsely chopped
  • 4 cups coarsely chopped celery
  • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon or 1 1/2 tablespoons dried
  • 2 large eggs, beaten to blend
  • Canned low-salt chicken broth


Preheat oven to 350°F. Spread bread cubes on 2 rimmed baking sheets. Bake until bread is almost dry, about 15 minutes. Cool. Transfer to large bowl.
Sauté bacon in large pot over medium-high heat until crisp, about 12 minutes. Transfer bacon to paper towels to drain. Reserve 6 tablespoons drippings in pot; discard any remaining drippings.
Add leeks and button mushrooms to same pot. Sauté over medium-high heat until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add shiitake mushrooms and saute 4 minutes. Add celery and sauté until leeks and mushrooms are tender but celery is still slightly crisp, about 6 minutes longer. (Bread, bacon and sautéed vegetables can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover separately. Store bread at room temperature; refrigerate bacon and vegetables.) Mix bacon, sautéed vegetables and tarragon into bread. Season generously with salt and pepper. Mix eggs into stuffing.

To bake stuffing in turkey:
Loosely fill main cavity with stuffing. Add enough broth to remaining stuffing to moisten lightly (about 1/4 to 1/2 cup, depending on amount of remaining stuffing). Generously butter glass baking dish. Spoon remaining stuffing into prepared dish. Cover with buttered foil, buttered side down. Bake stuffing in dish alongside turkey until heated through, about 25 to 30 minutes. Uncover and bake until top is slightly crisp and golden, about 15 to 20 minutes.

To bake all of stuffing in baking dish:
Preheat oven to 350°F. Generously butter 15 x 10 x 2-inch . Add enough broth to stuffing to moisten (about 3/4 to 1 cup). Transfer stuffing to prepared dish. Cover with butter foil, buttered side down; bake until heated through, about 30 to 35 minutes. Uncover and bake until top is slightly crisp and golden, about 20 to 25 minutes longer.



  • 1 1/2 pounds rutabagas, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 3 pounds russet potatoes, peeled, cut into 2-inch pieces
  • 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter
  • 3/4 cup (or more) buttermilk
  • Chopped green onion tops or chives


Cook rutabagas in large pot of boiling salted water until very tender, about 20 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer rutabagas to strainer. Press gently to release any excess liquid.
Add potatoes to same pot of boiling water; cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain well. Return potatoes and rutabagas to same pot. Add butter; mash well. Add 3/4 cup buttermilk; mash until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 6 hours ahead. Cover and chill. Stir over low heat to rewarm, adding more buttermilk by tablespoonfuls, if desired.)
Transfer potatoes to bowl. Sprinkle with green onions and serve.




  • 7 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 1 1/2 ounces)
  • 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter, room temperature
  • 1 teaspoon caraway seeds
  • 3/4 teaspoon grated lemon peel
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
  • 3/4 cup chopped shallots
  • 3 10-ounce packages frozen petite peas, unthawed
  • 1/3 cup canned beef broth or water
  • 1/3 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley


Mix Parmesan cheese, 4 tablespoons butter, caraway seeds, lemon peel and pepper in small bowl. (Can be prepared 3 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate.) Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add shallots; sauté until tender, about 3 minutes. Add peas, broth and parsley and stir until peas are heated through, about 8 minutes. Add Parmesan butter and stir until melted. Season with salt. Transfer to bowl and serve.



  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
  • 1 cup frozen corn kernels, thawed
  • 4 teaspoons chili powder
  • 1 cup buttermilk
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 cup yellow cornmeal
  • 1 cup all purpose flour
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda


Preheat oven to 400°F. Butter twelve 1/3-cup metal muffin cups. Melt butter in heavy medium skillet over medium heat. Add corn and chili powder. Sauté 3 minutes. Transfer to medium bowl. Mix in buttermilk, then eggs. Cool completely.
Whisk cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and baking soda in large bowl to blend. Add buttermilk mixture; stir just until blended.
Divide batter among prepared muffin cups. Bake until tester inserted into center of muffins comes out clean, about 20 minutes. Transfer muffins to rack. Cool slightly. (Can be made 2 weeks ahead. Cool completely. Wrap in foil, seal in plastic bag and freeze. Rewarm muffins wrapped in foil in 350°F oven until heated through, about 8 minutes.)



  • 21/2 cups cherry cider or black cherry cider or cranberry juice cocktail
  • 1 8-ounce package dried tart cherries (about 2 cups)
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 12-ounce package cranberries
  • 1/4 teaspoon (generous) ground cloves


Bring cider to simmer in heavy, large saucepan. Remove from heat. Add cherries and let stand 8 minutes. Mix in sugar, then cranberries and cloves. Cook over medium-high heat until cranberries burst, stirring occasionally, about 9 minutes. Refrigerate until cold, about 4 hours (sauce will thicken as it cools). (Can be prepared 4 days ahead. Cover and keep refrigerated.)



For crust

  • 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 large egg yolk
  • 3 tablespoons (or more) ice water
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons grated orange peel

For filling

  • 1 15-ounce can solid pack pumpkin
  • 3 large eggs
  • 3/4 cup (packed) golden brown sugar
  • 3/4 cup whipping cream
  • 1/4 cup frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed
  • 1/4 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
  • 2 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt

Lightly sweetened whipped cream
Fine strips of orange peel (optional)


Make crust:
Blend flour, butter, sugar and salt in processor until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add yolk, 3 tablespoons ice water and orange peel. Process until moist clumps form, adding more water by teaspoonfuls if dough is dry. Gather dough into ball; flatten into disk. Wrap in plastic; chill 1 hour. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Keep refrigerated. Let soften slightly at room temperature before rolling out.)
Position rack in bottom third of oven and preheat to 400°F. Roll out dough on lightly floured surface to 14-inch round. Transfer to 9-inch glass pie dish. Trim overhang to 3/4 inch; fold under and press into 1/2-inch-high standing rim. Using scissors, make diagonal cuts in dough rim at 1/2-inch intervals; press cut rim pieces alternately in and out. Pierce crust (not dough rim) all over with fork.

Freeze crust 30 minutes.
Line crust with foil; fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake until crust edge is dry and set, about 12 minutes. Remove foil and beans. Bake crust until lightly colored, pressing with back of fork if crust bubbles, about 8 minutes. Transfer crust to rack and cool completely. Reduce oven temperature to 325°F.

Make filling:
Whisk first 10 ingredients in large bowl until well blended. Pour into prepared crust.
Gently cover crust edge with foil to prevent over-browning. Bake until filling puffs and begins to split at edges and is just set in center, about 1 hour 5 minutes. Cool pie on rack. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)
Top pie with whipped cream and orange peel strips, if desired. Serve cold or at room temperature.




For topping

  • 1 1/4 cups old-fashioned or quick oats
  • 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (packed) dark brown sugar
  • 3/4 cup all purpose flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 3/4 cup almonds, lightly toasted, chopped
  • 1/2 cup chopped crystallized ginger

For Filling

  • 4 pounds Granny Smith or Pippin apples, peeled, cored, sliced
  • 1 1/2 cups dried tart cherries
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon all purpose flour
  • 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • Vanilla ice cream


Make topping:
Mix oats, brown sugar, flour, cinnamon and salt in large bowl. Add butter and rub in until coarse crumbs form. Mix in almonds and ginger. (Topping can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)
Make filling:
Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter twelve 1 1/4-cup soufflé dishes. Combine apples, cherries, sugar, lemon juice, flour and ground cinnamon in large bowl. Mix to blend well. Divide filling among prepared dishes.
Sprinkle topping over apples. Bake until topping is golden brown, about 40 minutes. Serve warm with ice cream.




  • 1 pound venison or lean beef, boiled and chopped
  • 4 ounces suet
  • 1 pound tart apples, peeled, cored, and chopped fine
  • 3/4 cup beef broth (or reserved cooking liquid from meat)
  • 1 1/4 cup sugar
  • 3/4 cup cider
  • 1/4 cup molasses
  • 2 tablespoons cider vinegar
  • 1 cup golden raisins
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground allspice
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground nutmeg
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
  • Juice from one lemon
  • Juice from one orange
  • 1/4 cup brandy


Pastry dough for 9-inch double-crust pie
1 large egg white, lightly beaten
Makes a dozen mini pies


For the filling: In large stock pot or Dutch oven, combine all ingredients except brandy and bring to boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 2 hours, stirring occasionally. Add brandy and cool to room temperature.
For the pies: Place oven rack in middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees.
Roll dough to 1/8-inch thickness and cut into 12 4-inch circles and 12 2-inch circles.
Line standard capacity muffin tin with larger circles, pressing dough firmly into pan edges; chill for 30 minutes if dough becomes soft.
Fill each cup to the top with about 1/3 cup mincemeat, top with smaller dough circles, then cut a slit or small circle in the center of each. Brush with egg white and bake until dough is golden brown and filling is bubbling, about 30 minutes.
Cool on wire rack 15 minutes, remove pies from pan, and continue to cool another 30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

How To Make The Perfect Hay Bale Gardening For Spring-Step By Step-Hay Bale Gardening Effortless Food Production with No Weeds, No Fertilizer & Less Watering

How To Make The Perfect Hay Bale Gardening For Spring-Step By Step-Hay Bale Gardening Effortless Food Production with No Weeds, No Fertilizer & Less Watering

We have decided to do Hay Bale gardening this year in Louisiana. This video shows us getting everything set up and the conditioning process started. No more worries about the yard flooding. The Hay Bale Garden series begins….

Hay bale gardening is probably the most fun you’ll have growing your own food and herbs, requiring almost no work or maintenance.

After a search online to find the simplest and easiest “no work” gardening method, I stumbled upon straw bale gardening. The concept is simple: You plant directly into bales of straw, and as the season progresses, the straw is broken down into virgin soil that nourishes the plants from inside the bale. One amazing benefit of this method of gardening is that the bales provide a raised bed, which keeps predators away and makes picking your vegetal treasures at the end of the season easy on the back. I watched every video I could find on the subject, and have since concluded that using HAY bales instead of STRAW bales is far superior.

Why Hay Bales are Superior to Straw Bales?

Before we get into why hay bales are superior to straw bales, let’s first define what they are:
Straw bales are basically stalks of plants, usually corn, that have been dried out and baled together into various shapes and sizes.
Hay bales are grasses that have been dried and baled together.

In my research, the idea that hay bales may have seeds in them and could grow weeds is the same reasoning reiterated time and time again by proponents of straw bale gardening. The reason why this idea holds little water is that when nitrogen is added to feed the bacteria and fungi to start the decomposition process of the bale, a process called “Conditioning your bale”, the interior of the bale can reach temperatures as high as 130 degrees Fahrenheit or more.

The likelihood of seeds surviving these extreme temperatures is slim, and a number of other benefits that come from using hay bales make it a far superior approach in my opinion.

-Straw is likely made from genetically modified plant matter – The problem with straw bales is that they will usually be made of genetically modified corn or soy. Do you really want your food growing in decomposing genetically modified plant matter?


There is an old saying that our great-grandparents used to know:

Once in life you need a doctor, a lawyer, a policeman, and a preacher, but every day, three times a day, you need a FARMER.”

The Lost Ways…. A True Story About Our Grandparents Days!

They got things done or else we wouldn’t be here!Watch this video and you will find many interesting things!Watch this FREE Video

-No fertilizer needed with hay – Hay is made of dried grasses, and for its ability to convert sunlight and soil minerals into dense nutrition, it has been said that grass is the healthiest plant on the planet. When we use hay bales for gardening (as opposed to straw bales), the compost that is formed within the bale to feed the plants is far superior in nutrition and, unlike straw bales, no fertilizer needs to be added to feed your plants throughout the season.

Less Watering – Straw holds water less effectively than hay, so instead of watering once per day with hay bales, you might have to do it 2 or 3 times per day.I like your concept

How to Grow a Hay Bale Garden


The first step to growing a hay bale garden is to acquire your hay bales. Take a look on your local classifieds like Kijiji or Craigslist and find a local farmer who is selling them. Once you find a nearby farmer with 40lb hay bales for sale, email them and arrange a time to pick them up or have them delivered to you.

Once you have the bales and have arranged them in your yard, the next step is to “condition” your bales. Buy yourself some 42-0-0 fertilizer, or some urea (nitrogen), and from here you will be introducing nitrogen into the bales over a 10-day period that will have the fungi, bacteria and insects breaking down your bales into fresh, virgin compost to feed your plants. You can also pee on your bales, as it is high in nitrogen and minerals, so start saving up pee in bottles for a fertilizer cost savings of about $40.

Days 1,3,5,7,9 – Add 1/2 cup of nitrogen to your bales and spray them with water so the nitrogen will soak in.
Days 2,4,6,8,10 – Soak the bale with water only.


During the conditioning process, the temperature of the bale will rise significantly, from my research, up to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. In fact, the bales will become so hot that it’s important to keep the bales wet to eliminate the risk of a fire. Although risk of fire is minimal, keep this in mind when deciding where to stage your bales. When the conditioning process is complete, you’ll know it because the temperature inside the bale will have come back down from hot to warm. Now you’re ready to plant!

Simply plant your vegetable seeds or germinated seeds into the bale, water them once a day and you’re on your way to healthy produce in a few exciting months. The best part is, at the end of the season you’ll have yourself a heap of fresh compost that you can further compost or add to your other gardens or perennial plant beds for nourishment.

DIY Home Energy System–Learn how to produce off-grid power-How to Slash Your Power Bill by up to 75% (or more) in less than 30 days – Guaranteed!

See the video below for more information on how to get started:

Once Upon a Time in America…Are you ready to turn back the clocks to the 1800s for up to three years?Our grandfathers and great-grandfathers were the last generation to practice the basic things that we call survival skills now. …

How North American Indians and Early Pioneers Made Pemmican?Watch the video below!

By,Mark David


  1. Monti 24 August, 2017 at 15:29 Reply

    Title includes the text “No Fertilizer”.

    Article text
    “-No fertilizer needed with hay –
    no fertilizer needs to be added

    next step is to “condition” your bales. Buy yourself some 42-0-0 FERTILIZER ”


How To Make Walnut Oil: a Step-to-Step Guide – 7 Benefits Of Walnuts

How To Make Walnut Oil: a Step-to-Step Guide – 7 Benefits Of Walnuts

Walnuts supply your body with many nutrients and vitamins.The effect of walnut is so amazing that many people have health benefits after just 4 hours of consumption.

7 Top Reasons to Eat Walnuts

Walnuts belong to the tree nut family, along with Brazil nuts, cashews, hazelnuts, macadamia nuts, pecans, pine nuts, and pistachios. Each has its own unique nutritional profile.

One-quarter cup of walnuts, for instance, provides more than 100 percent of the daily recommended value of plant-based omega-3 fats, along with high amounts of copper, manganese, molybdenum, and biotin. Some of the most exciting research about walnuts includes:

1.Cancer-Fighting Properties

Walnuts may help reduce not only the risk of prostate cancer, but breast cancer as well. In one study, mice that ate the human equivalent of 2.4 ounces of whole walnuts for 18 weeks had significantly smaller and slower-growing prostate tumors compared to the control group that consumed the same amount of fat but from other sources.

Overall the whole walnut diet reduced prostate cancer growth by 30 to 40 percent. According to another study on mice, the human equivalent of just two handfuls of walnuts a day cut breast cancer risk in half, and slowed tumor growth by 50 percent as well.

2.Heart Health

Walnuts contain the amino acid l-arginine, which offers multiple vascular benefits to people with heart disease, or those who have increased risk for heart disease due to multiple cardiac risk factors.

If you struggle with herpes, you may want to avoid or limit walnuts, as high levels of arginine can deplete the amino acid lysine, which can trigger herpes recurrences.

Walnuts also contain the plant-based omega-3 fat alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), which is anti-inflammatory and may prevent the formation of pathological blood clots. Research shows that people who eat a diet high in ALA are less likely to have a fatal heart attack and have a nearly 50 percent lower risk of sudden cardiac death.

Eating just four walnuts a day has been shown to significantly raise blood levels of heart-healthy ALA, and walnut consumption supports healthful cholesterol levels.

Separate research showed that eating just one ounce of walnuts a day may decrease cardiovascular risk,and among those at high cardiovascular risk, increased frequency of nut consumption significantly lowers the risk of death.

SEE ALSO: This Lost Super-Food Will Bulletproof You Against Any Food Shortage Or Famine !

3.Rare and Powerful Antioxidants

Antioxidants are crucial to your health, as they are believed to help control how fast you age by combating free radicals, which are at the heart of age-related deterioration.

Walnuts contain several unique and powerful antioxidants that are available in only a few commonly eaten foods. This includes the quinone juglone, the tannin tellimagrandin, and the flavonol morin.

Walnuts contain antioxidants that are so powerful at free-radical scavenging that researchers called them “remarkable,” and research has shown that walnut polyphenols may help prevent chemically-induced liver damage.

In another study, researchers found that nuts, especially walnuts, have potent antioxidant powers. Walnut polyphenols had the best efficacy among the nuts tested and also the highest lipoprotein-bound antioxidant activity. The researchers concluded:

“Nuts are high in polyphenol antioxidants which by binding to lipoproteins would inhibit oxidative processes that lead to atherosclerosis in vivo. In human supplementation studies nuts have been shown to improve the lipid profile, increase endothelial function and reduce inflammation, all without causing weight gain.”

4.Weight Control

Adding healthful amounts of nuts such as walnuts to your diet can help you to maintain your ideal weight over time. In one review of 31 trials, those whose diets included extra nuts or nuts substituted for other foods lost about 1.4 extra pounds and half an inch from their waists. Eating walnuts is also associated with increased satiety after just three days.

5.Improved Reproductive Health in Men

One of the lesser-known benefits of walnuts is their impact on male fertility. Among men who consume a Western-style diet, adding 75 grams (a bit over one-half cup) of walnuts daily significantly improved sperm quality, including vitality, motility, and morphology.

6.Brain Health

Walnuts contain a number of neuroprotective compounds, including vitamin E, folate, melatonin, omega-3 fats, and antioxidants. Research shows walnut consumption may support brain health, including increasing inferential reasoning in young adults.

One study also found that consuming high-antioxidant foods like walnuts “can decrease the enhanced vulnerability to oxidative stress that occurs in aging,” “increase health span,” and also “enhance cognitive and motor function in aging.”


The beneficial dietary fat in walnuts has been shown to improve metabolic parameters in people with type 2 diabetes. Overweight adults with type 2 diabetes who ate one-quarter cup of walnuts daily had significant reductions in fasting insulin levels compared to those who did not, and the benefit was achieved in the first three months.

SEE ALSO : Similar to Morphine: The Best Natural Painkiller that Grows in Your Backyard

Why You Should Eat the Walnut Skin

The outermost layer of a shelled walnut – the whitish, flakey (or sometimes waxy) part – has a bitter flavor, but resist the urge to remove it. It’s thought that up to 90 percent of the antioxidants in walnuts are found in the skin, making it one of the healthiest parts to consume. To increase the positive impacts on your health, look for nuts that are organic and raw, not irradiated or pasteurized.

Furthermore, be aware that walnuts are highly perishable and their healthful fats easily damaged. If you’re purchasing shelled walnuts in bulk, avoid those that appear shriveled or smell rancid, or that you cannot verify are fresh. Walnuts should be stored in an airtight container in your refrigerator or freezer, whether they are shelled or unshelled. Walnuts are great as a quick snack, but if you’re not a fan of their flavor, you can still get their therapeutic benefits by blending them into smoothies. Or you can try one of the other healthful nuts available.

You can further improve the quality of walnuts by soaking them in water overnight, which will tend to lower some of the enzyme inhibitors and phytic acid. After soaking, you can dehydrate them at low temperature of around 105 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit until they are crispy again, as they are far more palatable when they are crunchy.

How to Make Walnut Oil: a Step-to-Step Guide

How to make walnut oil at home?Walnut oil is known for its beneficial composition and benefits for our health as according to Wikipedia  walnut oil is a source of omega-3 fatty acids essential for our health. It possesses omega-9 fats needed for a healthy heart. Moreover, it is high in vitamins B1, B2 and B3 and vitamin E, a strong antioxidant. Walnut oil has other antioxidants that protect our cells from harmful effect. Walnut oil also contains iron, magnesium, copper, niacin, zinc and selenium. And all this are in a small spoon of walnut oil. This oil isn’t sold everywhere and it is expensive. Walnut oil is cold-pressed from nuts so it is possible to make it by yourself. You will require some appliances.

You will need:

  • 6 lbs of walnuts (make sure it is English walnuts)
  • a nut cracker
  • a meat grinder
  • an oil press
  • 2 large bowls


  1. Buy 6 lbs. of walnuts. They should be in the shell, dry and fresh. If it is possible collect them from the walnut tree when they are ripe and dry them. With the help of a nut cracker open the shell of walnuts and extract the meat out into a clean bowl.
  2. The next step of how to make walnut oil is to grind walnuts. Put a small amount into a meat grinder and continue grinding until the walnuts are fine. Grind all walnuts in such a way.
  3. After that we should warm up the walnut meat. Put it into a pot and add some water. Just a little bit. Heat the mixture for 30 minutes. Constantly stir it.
  4. Place the hot walnut meat in an oil press and squeeze the oil. Make sure that you have put a bowl under the oil press. Collect the oil in the bowl. Press all the meat. You are likely to receive about 1.5 qts. of walnut oil. The amount depends on the walnuts quality.
  5. The last thing you need to do is to filter the oil. Take a cheese cloth and pour the oil through it into a clean bowl. It is better to pour the oil into dark small bottles for storing. It is a good idea to label the bottles indicating the date of the oil pressing. Keep your oil in a refrigerator in sealed containers for up to 2 months.


Eat 5 Walnuts, Wait for 4 Hours and See the Results. Amazing!/how-to-make-walnut-oil-a-step-to-step-guide-7-benefits-of-walnuts/

Posted by Patricia Irons on Monday, April 2, 2018




Potato harvest from bales is easy, with no fork or shovel, simply cut the strings and kick over the bales, and pick up the potatoes. No marks on the potatoes from the forks or shovels, so they will store well, unblemished. Wrap them in brown paper, this helps them store longer. Keep them in a dry cool place, and check your stock often, tossing out any that have gotten soft or begun to rot. You’ll have delicious potatoes until the following summer when new stock will be ready again.

In normal soil gardens it is important to hill up the soil around the stem as the potato emerges. This is important because potatoes form on on the stem not on the roots. If planted too deep in the soil, the stem has a hard time emerging, because it cannot push up more than a few inches of soil. In a straw bale, we simply plant the potato cutting deep into the bale.

While a bale may be 20″ high, we will plant 16-18″ deep in a “crack” in the bale. The looseness of the bale will allow the stem to easily reach the surface, and the potatoes will form along this stretch of stem, filling the bale with potatoes. I suggest two or three potatoes in a bale, even while planting other crops on the surface of the bale.



These “surface” plantings will be harvested early before the potato vine has stretched its way above and around the bale. Wait for the vine to flower and this is the earliest the potatoes will be ready, however waiting for the vine to wither later in the fall will allow the potatoes inside to mature a bit longer.

Try Hay Bale Gardening, especially if you like potatoes, you’ll never go back to growing potatoes in the soil. Growing potatoes any other way will seem silly once you’ve done it this way.0

The bale set-up was actually a thrill. Maybe it’s an unfulfilled interest in engineering, but I really enjoyed the challenge of locating and grouping the bales in full sun, amongst a system of north-south lines between posts that I drove into the ground myself with a post pounder.

 I enjoyed stringing an espalier wire system (trellis) between the posts, as I imagined great climbing cucumbers, beans and tomatoes. 

When the bale conditioning was done and early May rolled around, the planting also was fun. No deep knee bends. No shins caked with dirt. No worry about compacting the soil. The straw bales top out at nearly two feet above ground, so they are ergonomically better even than raised beds for the gardener’s comfort while planting, watering, maintaining and harvesting. 


Pre-Planting: experimenting with a couple spare hay bales

Motivated by the set-up process, I couldn’t wait for the conditioning to be over, so decided to experiment with a couple “naturally preconditioned” bales of horse hay I’d used to help insulate my beehives over the winter. (Note: Most hay contains lots of seeds that threaten to become weeds.

It also lacks straw’s ideal moisture-holding hollow stems. However, horse hay falls halfway between cattle hay and straw: it is mainly hollow-stemmed grasses without lots of seedy plants.) So just as an experiment, I used the breaking-down bee bales to get a head start at planting. 0

Preparing to plant wild potatoes.

With a trowel, I wedged deep openings and dropped in 4 or 5 sprouting eyes of some old sprouting gold potatoes. Then filled each hole with organic soil. 

Also dropped in some sections of wild potatoes, something I’d never seen before and picked at a farmer’s market in San Francisco. To date, a few hills of Golds have emerged and look pretty happy to be nestled into hay bales.

Planting: straw bales conditioned and ready

When my bales were fully conditioned the straw was nicely decomposing, its stiffness softened and easy to plunge a trowel into. So, it was time to treat myself to a trip to Seed Savers, just north of Decorah, for some heirloom plants. Tomatoes and peppers are my favorite homegrown vegetables. After choosing from so many beautiful and unusual varieties, I am inspired to try and make it to Seed Savers’ famous late summer tomato tasting. 



Yukon golds

To plant my starts, I scooped trowel-fulls of soil into each planting spot, gauging three tomatoes per bale or five pepper plants or a checkerboard of offset patches of greens and cucumbers.

Carrots, beets and beans I planted in straight, close-together rows. I made sure to save a little leftover straw bale so I could add plants from Lanesboro Farmer’s Market.

And I’ll plan to replace early lettuces with cold-hardy kale and arugula later in the season.

A couple humbling planting points I learned that will promise a better straw bale garden next year:  

  • Use a light potting mix, not the rich, dense composted soil which cakes and hardens as it dries out, making it hard for tiny sprouts to erupt.  

  • Don’t confuse bush beans with climbing beans. I was pleased to recall from childhood my mom soaked the bean seeds to help them sprout sooner.

  • So the beans came up in three days! But I had to plant a second row when I realized the first planting was actually the short bushy variety – not the climbers that would actually use the trellis wires I’d set up for them. I enjoy pickled string beans and have practiced two years now to put up bean pickles that don’t shrink and wrinkle due to too strong a vinegar mix. This year, I’ll have extras to practice getting the juiciness right.

  • Don’t fertilize new tomato plants. While testing out an original Rhubarb-Stinging Nettle recipe for the Rhubarb Festival’s tasting attraction, I ended up with a lot of nettles stems and scraps. So I brewed up some of that great natural fertilizing tea that fermenting nettles are famous for. Maybe the tea was a bit strong. The result: my young heirloom transplants yellowed — from the overdose of nitrogen that their root systems weren’t mature enough to handle? Maybe a wise gardener reading this could better explain. 


Beans…and some mushrooms.

Watering: keeping the bales moist.

The plan was to set up a fully automatic system on a timer that could function on its own – especially when I need to be away for a few days. No dragging out hoses. No standing over plants, watering each and every one.

So I dedicated a few hoses to the project, buried one that crosses the mowed lawn, added splitters with switch valves that allow me to water new fruit trees planted along my approach to the straw bale site: a bonus that bodes well for a bounty of future fruit.

A second hose splitter junction near the straw bales lets me automatically or manually trigger the soaker hose. The soaker is buried across a mowed area surrounding the bales, then snakes up and down each row of bales. The buried segments of the hose were neatly duct taped to minimize water waste. 

Heirloom tomatoes

There seems to be a learning curve to getting the soaker hose right. It’s a mystery how much water is delivered and whether that water reaches the plants’ roots. How effective is the duct tape, really, in blocking segments of the soaker hose? In the meantime, I enjoy hand-watering and inspecting the garden close-up each morning. When I have to be out-of-town, I’ll take my chances with the automatic backup. 

Another bonus.

Since the hay bale garden is on the way to our chicken coop and on the way back from the horse barn, it’s kind of fun to add a stop along the way as my husband and I make the rounds each morning and evening to watch our vegetables growing and enjoy knowing we’re a little more in control of what we eat.

It’s too early to tell whether this gardening method will yield that perfect garden I began to imagine in that Straw Bale Gardening class. But since it’s all just a fun experiment, I keep in mind that the worst that can happen is that I am left with nothing but some good compost (composted straw makes good, clean, rich, weed-free soil that could easily translate into a healthy, chemical-free, nutrient-rich raised-bed garden in any future year.) Either way, it’s a win – and a curious new spin for putting vegetables on the table.


HAY-BALE-GARDENING-POTATOES:YOU'LL NEVER GROW POTATOES ANY OTHER WAY AGAIN ! STEP BY STEP FULL GUIDE/hay-bale-gardening-potatoesyoull-never-grow-potatoes-any-other-way-again-step-by-step-full-guide/

Posted by The Garden Prepper on Friday, April 7, 2017




Garlic is known to be an extremely effective vegetable, which can provide an immense number of health benefits. The list of diseases that garlic can kill is long, and includes:

-Helicobacter Pylori infection

-Candida (Yeast) infection

-Thrush (Fungal overgrowth in oral cavity)

-Mycotoxin-associated aflatoxicosis

-Methicillin- Resistant Staphylococcus Aureus (MRSA)

-Klebsiella infection

-HIV-1 infection

-Vibrio infection

-Pseudomonas Aerigonosima(including drug-resistant strains)

-Mycobacterium Tuberculosis, multi-drug resistant Clostridium infection

-Cytomegalovirus Infections

-Viral Infections ( Herpes Simplex 1 and 2, Parainfluenza virus type 3, vaccinia virus, vesicular stomatitis virus and human rhinovirus type 2)

-Group B Streptococcus Infection

These are only a small part of the health conditions in which garlic can be of great use due to its powerful properties to fight infection.

This amazing vegetable has been used to treat and cure cancer throughout the ages. Even Hippocrates recommended the consumption of large amounts of crushed garlic as a cure for cancer.

If you decide to heal your cancer using this remarkable item as an anti-fungal, you should take at least 5-6 cloves of (crushed) garlic per day. There are about 12 cloves per the whole pod of garlic.

Moreover, note that you should let them sit for at least 15 minutes after they have been crushed. This amount of time is needed to release an enzyme (allinase) that produces these anti-fungal, anti-cancer compounds.

However, you can eat the raw or cooked garlic as part of sandwiches or other meals, but according to research, garlic supplements do not produce the same anti-cancer, anti-fungal results.

Garlic also permeates the research literature: the biomedical database known as MEDLINE, provided by the National Library of Medicine, contains 4245 study abstracts on garlic.

According to the data given there, garlic is extremely important in preventing or treating well over 150 health conditions, ranging from cancer to diabetes, infection to plaque buildup in the arteries, DNA damage to mercury poisoning.

Furthermore, in the research on, it was also stated that garlic has value in 167 health conditions or disease symptoms, but the greatest density of research indicates garlic’s role in preventing and/or treating Cardiovascular Disease and Cancers, the two primary causes of death within high-income countries.

Inexpensive, time-tested, safe and delicious, natural remedies and spices like garlic have been ‘life saving’, and consequently, in ancient times, many were worth their weight in gold.

Nowadays, although we are aware of its power and are starting to be more and more convinced in it, it seems that doctors will always prescribe drugs as part of our treatments.

Therefore, you are responsible for your own health. Learn how you can use the nature to improve your health and always use its items if they work and they are safe.

Many people have used it as a replacement for addictive prescription pain medicine.Wild Lettuce is un-scheduled by the FDA, meaning it is legal to forage, to grow, and own without prescription or license… just like the Native Americans used it to heal their pain.


Rudolf Brojs from Austria has dedicated his whole life to finding the best natural cure for cancer.He actually made a special juice that gives excellent results for treating cancer.

He has cured more than 45, 000 people who suffered from cancer and other incurable diseases with this method. Brojs said that cancer can survive only with the help of proteins.

He devised a special eating regimen which lasts for 42 days, and he recommends drinking just tea and his special vegetable juice, with beetroot as its main ingredient. During these 42 days, the cancer cells starve and die, while your overall health is improved.

In order to prepare his special juice you need organic vegetables. Here’s what you’ll need:

  • Beetroot (55%),
  • Carrots (20%),
  • Celery root (20%),
  • Potatoes (3%)
  • Radishes (2%)

You just need to put all the ingredients in a blender and mix them all well. That’s it, you’re ready to start your treatment.

Just remember not to overdo it with the consumption of the juice, drink as much as your body requires.

Beetroot is abundant in antioxidants, C, B1, B2, B6 vitamins, folic and pantothenic acid, and the minerals – potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, calcium, sodium, iron, zinc, beetroot is considered to be one of the most health beneficial vegetables. The red color in beets comes from magenta pigments known as betacyanins.

A number of studies have confirmed beetroot is extremely beneficial in treatment against leukemia and cancer.

First of all, beets are abundant in betaine, which is an amino acid with powerful anticancer properties. Plus, it’s a strong anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and detoxification agent. Studies confirm that betaine destroys cells in the tumor tissue.

Beetroot can be used for the treatment of many types of cancer and the findings of one study revealed that 100% of subjects suffering from cancer positively responded to beet treatment.

It’s beneficial for pregnant women because it contains high levels of folic acid. It boost the function of the liver and gall bladder, preventing constipation. It helps with headaches, toothaches, dysentery, bone problems, skin issues and menstrual pains. It’s a true all-purpose medicinal plant which should be an indispensable part of every diet.

The Lost book of Natural Remedies.Based in historical fact!

The Lost Book of Natural Remedies contains a series of medicinal and herbal recipes to make home made remedies from medicinal plants and herbs.

Chromic diseases and maladies can be overcome by taking the remedies outlined in this book. The writer claims that his grandfather was taught herbalism and healing whilst in active service during world war two and that he has treated many soldiers with his home made cures.
Watch the Video Below



FINANCIAL CRISIS WARNING:China ‘Weaponize’ Yuan For Dollar Collapse -U.S.-China trade dispute is hurting American farmers

FINANCIAL CRISIS WARNING:China ‘Weaponize’ Yuan For Dollar Collapse -U.S.-China trade dispute is hurting American farmers


Can we avoid the global economic collapse during this trade war between the two largest economies on the entire planet? We have never seen anything like this happen in the modern age, and this is creating a tremendous amount of uncertainty for the financial markets.

China has been stealing our intellectual property, manipulating currency rates and slapping high tariffs on American goods. We simply could not allow China to continue to take advantage of us, but now we are so dependent on the Chinese that a trade war with them is going to inevitably produce a major economic collapse and stock market crash.

We are all going to wish that another way could have been found to resolve this economic crisis, because in the short-term this is definitely going to hurt the U.S. economy and causing a major economic collapse. And if President Trump chooses to press forward with trade wars against Europe, Canada and Mexico at the same time as well, the pain for our economy is going to be off the charts.

U.S.-China trade dispute is hurting American farmers

American farmers are expected to traverse a rocky financial road in the coming months.

  • American farmers are seeing economic losses as a result from the U.S.-China trade dispute.
  • Farmers of soybeans, which is the most imported U.S. crop in China, have been hit especially hard.
  • All agricultural commodities are at risk.

American farmers are suffering economic losses from a U.S.-China trade dispute that shows no signs of slowing down.

The Trump administration announced plans for the U.S. to impose a 10-percent tariff starting Sept. 24 on $200 billion worth of Chinese goods, increasing to 25 percent on Jan. 1. The Chinese government responded a day later by announcing new tariffs on U.S. goods worth $60 billion.

Losses across the country

A new map from the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Economic Research Service, which shows year-over-year changes in net cash farm income, illustrates how farmers in all regions of the U.S. are, in part, already losing money from the tit-for-tat retaliatory measures.

Each region of the country specializes in certain crops, for example:

  • Basin and Range: beef and wheat
  • Heartland: soybeans and corn
  • Northern Crescent: dairy
  • Northern Great Plains: wheat, corn, soybeans
  • Prairie Gateway: wheat, corn, soybeans
  • Fruitful Rim: fruits, citrus fruits, vegetables
  • Mississippi Portal: cotton, soybeans, corn
  • Southern Seaboard: cotton, peanuts, rice

“All of these commodity prices are linked together,” Gary Schnitkey, Professor in Farm Management at the University of Illinois, told Yahoo Finance. “If soybean prices fall, so do corn and wheat.”

American growers of soybean, which is the most-imported U.S. commodity in China, are expected to be hit hardest by the trade dispute. In 2017, China imported from the U.S. about 33 million tons of soybeans, which are used to feed livestock and make cooking oil. If China can find another source for its soybeans, such as Brazil, the U.S. could see economic losses in the billions.

“On the U.S. side, farmers will suffer the most from the imposition of Chinese tariffs on U.S. soybeans,” Loren Puette, director of Taiwan-based research firm ChinaAg, told DW. “To have the Chinese market shut down for these farmers would be a major financial blow,” Puette says.

Still, China would likely suffer in the transition, too.

“The annual loss in U.S. economic well-being would range between $1.7 billion and $3.3 billion,” said Wally Tyner, an agricultural economist at Purdue University. “Chinese economic well-being also falls if they impose a tariff, in some cases as much or more than for the U.S. The reason for that is that soybean imports are very important to their domestic economy.”

Some have suggested an additional reason why China is targeting soybeans: to turn soybean farmers, many of whom are based in red states, against President Donald Trump ahead of the midterm elections.

“With the midterm elections only a few months away, we would expect China to keep the pressure turned up,” John LaForge, head of real asset strategy at the Wells Fargo Investments Institute, wrote in a note to clients. “But soon thereafter… we would expect to see some relief for U.S. soy prices and U.S. soy exporters.”

DIY : How to Build a Magick Spiral Herb Garden

DIY : How to Build a Magick Spiral Herb Garden | Spiral Garden Design, Plants and Plans

Learn how to build a herb spiral in this article. A spiral herb garden is used for growing different herbs in a small space. With it, you ca.n make a perfect use of your vertical space in an arranged manner.
The principle of spiral herb garden is simple but functional.

A herb spiral is basically a small herb garden. It is three-dimensional and have beds in a confined, sloppy space of spiral shape, which can be used to grow various herbs. The top area of the spiral receives the full sun and has superior drainage, therefore, herbs that like exposure to the sun and good drainage are planted there. The bottom area of the spiral is suitable to grow herbs that require moist soil and less sun.

Herb spiral has spirally upward walls that are made of natural stones or bricks. The spiral shape is enlarged in contrast to the raised bed, the bed area has sufficient space to grow herbs and there are several zones with different soil characteristics and exposure to the sun.

The walls of herb spiral store solar heat and pass it at night back to the plant. Gabion walls look very attractive and are suitable for spiral herb gardens, too. At the foot of the herb spiral you can even make a mini pond, which will retain the moisture in the lower area, or if you want, you can create a  wetland where you can grow plants that love saturated soil.

Making a herb spiral is relatively cheap or almost free. It utilizes vertical space, which means you can grow more plants in small space. It also provides microclimates to different plants that mean you can grow more variety of plants. You can also make it on a concrete floor in your urban space.

How to Build a Herb Spiral

Build a herb spiral in a spot that receives at least 5 hours of sunlight daily. A sunny spot is good, but if you live in tropics choose an area that receives shade in the afternoon. You can also make herb spiral on a rooftop garden or on a large balcony or terrace.

Materials Required for a Spiral herb Garden

• Limestone and limestone rubble
• Soil
• Compost or aged manure
• Geotextile, pond liner or large container
• Gravel, crushed stones or wood chips for the driveway around the spiral
• Plants
• Working Tools: Spade, shovel, wheelbarrow, a stick, a rope and a measurement tape.

An 80-100 cm (0.8-1 m) high herb spiral should have a minimum diameter of 1.5-2 m.


How to Make a Herb Spiral

1. Decide where on the ground you’ll make a herb spiral. Plant a pole exactly at the center of that area and with the help of the measurement tape and rope, make a circle with a stick and then mark it with limestone.

2. Now erode the topsoil with the help of a shovel or spade to level the spot, also remove weeds and other debris.

3. If you want to create a pond or wetland at the foot of the spiral dig the soil more deeply at that point.

4. Before you lay the stones to make the wall, cover the excavation for the future pond with pond liner and around the spiral and its path with geotextile to prevent the weeds. If you don’t want to use geotextile, lay the cardboards. You can skip this step if you want.

5. Use the larger stones for the very bottom file of the spiral wall and smaller stones for the top. Keep the top layer of stones slightly inclined towards the interior.

6. Raise the row of layered stones and spiral up to a height of about 0.80 to 1 m. Always fill in the gaps with gravel or rubble. Also, at the center of the spiral, which is deepest, you can fill half of its depth with rubble or gravel.

7. Space for the plants to grow between the spirals should be, according to the amplitude of the spiral, ideally 30 to 50 cm.

8. Add a thin layer of crushed stone, gravel, wood chips or other materials in the base of your spiral bed where you’ll grow plants to cover the gap and improve drainage. At last, fill the spiral with soil and aged manure or compost. Once done, your spiral herb garden is ready for planting.


9. In the case of very large spirals, it could be difficult to collect herbs from the center without stepping on the bed so it is a good idea to lay the stones as footholds. For stability, it is important that the stones are placed with the smooth side down, and they are arranged staggered to avoid creating continuous joints.

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Easy Cellar gives you the long-forgotten trick that has already aided our forefathers to make it through the famines, economics situations, wars, dry spells, diseases, and also anything else that life tossed at them. It is verified and also tested which has been developed by Tom Griffith.

Easy Cellar program will also help your cherished ones whenever America crumbles into the ground. The author has shared 3 beneficial lessons which will certainly see to it your children. It will offer you everything that our predecessor’s secret means of surviving your precious one for the rest of your life. Easy Cellar system will certainly boost the high quality of your life quickly.

Herb Spiral Plans for Planting

Plan 1

Here we have provided you a plan for a small Mediterranean spiral herb garden: For this, you will need a warm and sunny place. You can easily adjust your choice of herbs according to your climate and amount of sun your herb spiral may receive.

Planting Example: 1 Thyme, 2 Oregano (Origanum vulgare), 3 Lavender, 4 Garlic chives (Allium tuberosum), 5 Yarrow, 6 Lemon balm (Melissa officinais), 7 Sage, 8 French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus var. sativus), 9 Mint.

In a herb spiral, grow all the herbs you need for everyday cooking. The top of the herb spiral is a dry spot, which is ideal for the Mediterranean herbs such as lavender, sage, rosemary, or thyme. The middle circle of the spiral inhabits herbs that like slight moisture and requires the sun to thrive– cilantro, dill, lemon balm, lemon grass or chives. In the lower side, plant herbs that tolerate evenly moist soils and some shade such as mint, basil or parsley.

Plan 2

According to the plan 2, at the time of filling the soil in your spiral herb garden, bear in mind that this should be ideally divided into the four zones, each of which fades into the next without the continuity to give a different environment to your plants.

The area which is marked as A is on top of the spiral – Here you can grow Mediterranean or tropical herbs– Fill it with a light and loamy soil with the slight amount of sand.

In the second turn of the spiral, which is marked as B – Fill it with the soil that has some clay, also add a lot of compost to lighten it.

The lowest curve of the spiral, which is C– Fill it with rich potting soil and plenty of aged manure.

If you have not made a small water pond, then last is the swampy area D– Here add nutrient-rich soil so that you can grow here the plants that love wet soils.

Herb Spiral Plants


Rosemary (1), lavender (2), hyssop (3), Roman chamomile (4), sage (5), Oregano (6), savory (7), thyme (8), rui or (fake curry plant) helichrysum italicum (9).


Rocket (10), nasturtium (11), tarragon (or tarragon) (12), cilantro (13) Bishop’s weed (14), calendula (15), Marjoram (16 ), ginger (17).


Lemon balm (18), parsley (can not be close to chives), Bee balm (19) dill (20), garlic (21), chervil (22), chive (23), marshmallow (24), mint (25).


Meadowsweet (26), veronica beccabunga (27), watercress (28).

P = Stones to rest the feet.

Additional Tips for a Spiral Herb Garden

  • If you are making a pond, ensure the pond is facing North in Northern hemisphere and South in Southern hemisphere to reduce the evaporation of water.
  • Herbs that grow very tall, spread or expand in width should not be planted in the spiral herb garden because as they may suffocate the other plants.
  • Herbs like lovage, mint, borage, horseradish, artemisia, wormwood, and tansy or those that can become invasive, must be planted with care.
  • Plant the herb spiral in a way so that the tall plants will grow in the back. Otherwise, they will create the shade for the growing below in the spiral. Also, remember, that some herbs like mint are invasive and tend to spread. Therefore, it is better to plant them in a recessed bucket without a bottom.
  • With the herbs, you can also grow salad greens and edible flowers.

If you like, you can also grow flowers and other ornamental plants in your spiral herb garden.

DIY : How to Build a Magick Spiral Herb Garden | Spiral Garden Design, Plants and Plans/diy-how-to-build-a-magick-spiral-herb-garden-spiral-garden-design-plants-and-plans/

Posted by Patricia Irons on Wednesday, April 25, 2018



From vertical farms to solar-powered “farms from a box,” we’ve seen how farming technology has grown leaps and bounds in recent years. But for those who prefer something a little more rustic, growing food from a hole in the ground is as low-tech as you can get.

A walipini, meaning “place of warmth” from the Amaraya Indian language, is an underground greenhouse with a transparent (usually plastic) covering that stays warm by passively soaking up the sun’s heat and absorbing the earth’s thermal energy.

Fruits and vegetables can be grown year-round, making it ideal for communities in colder locations that can’t usually grow their own fresh and local produce during certain parts of the year.

The farming method isn’t exactly new. Walipinis have been used in South and Central America for decades, including one that can grow bananas at 14,000 feet in the Andes.

The technique was notably adopted by The Benson Institute, a worldwide food security program of the Mormon church. According to The Plaid Zebra, the Benson Institute and its team of volunteers built a community-sized 74-feet-by-20-feet walipini in La Paz, Bolivia for around a mere $300.

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Easy Cellar gives you the long-forgotten trick that has already aided our forefathers to make it through the famines, economics situations, wars, dry spells, diseases, and also anything else that life tossed at them. It is verified and also tested which has been developed by Tom Griffith.Video below

The institute published a DIY manual on how to build such a structure. It explains:

The Walipini, in simplest terms, is a rectangular hole in the ground 6 to 8 feet deep covered by plastic sheeting. The longest area of the rectangle faces the winter sun—to the north in the Southern Hemisphere and to the south in the Northern Hemisphere. A thick wall of rammed earth at the back of the building and a much lower wall at the front provide the needed angle for the plastic sheet roof.

This roof seals the hole, provides an insulating airspace between the two layers of plastic (a sheet on the top and another on the bottom of the roof/poles) and allows the suns rays to penetrate creating a warm, stable environment for plant growth.

Minneapolis-based Seasons Unity Project builds walipinis and says these structures can be constructed in places with surface temperatures as cold as -10 degrees Fahrenheit and as few as four feet below ground level.

“Of course, many climates are too harsh for growing healthy vegetables, fruits, and herbs outside year-round. Rather than stopping at the apparent challenge or obstacle… [the structure] allows its caretaker to harvest, store, and deliver energy without generation or requirement of external energy or active energy input,” the Seasons Unity Project said.

This 4-minute clip features a farmer from the Comanche community in Bolivia. He explains how a walipini helps grow crops, such as potatoes and quinoa, even during the frosty and rainy winter from December to February.

It’s a new system for us. We can rescue the heat, and with that heat we can make a good production and we also save water,” he says. “With a walipini…we can produce not only fodder (for animals), we can produce food for all the people who live here.

A walipini is also great for places like The Netherlands, which also cold weather spells. A volunteer farming group there called Creative Garden Wageningen is working on its own walipini, dubbed the Sunken Greenhouse that will house lemons, strawberries, peppers, and a variety of beans and herbs, as you can see in the video in the beginning of this article.

EXCLUSIVE:Do not be one of the people that freezes and is overcome by fear—You need to move smartly if you want to survive.How to make a Generator at home.

Impressively, the structure’s inside beam is a living willow tree. Additionally, the grounds outside have plots for plants such as beans, pumpkins, onions and more. The roof covering was made with donated landfill plastic.

“We made it ourselves for very little if no money at all using leftover and donated materials,” uploader Ben Green wrote.

He added that their walipini now has a reciprocal roof, “one of the few in the world to have such a roof.”

Interested in building your own underground greenhouse? Here are 5 things you should know:

Note: Cost of construction is relative. Supplies required are quite inexpensive. Many off gridders provide their own labor and are extensively resourceful. If you plan to throw money at it and see it built, a $300.00 solution isn’t for you. If you require a backhoe rental to dig, and someone to run it, the costs will be sizeably more.




As the cold weather starts to come on, many of us sigh and look forward to the start of the spring again, when we can once more grow fresh vegetables and fruit for our tables. But it doesn’t have to be like that! There’s many cold-weather vegetables that can easily grow with just a little protection. And building a cold frame is the perfect solution.

While a cold frame can be as simple and small as a plastic 2-liter bottle with the bottom cut off, carefully placed overtop of a plant to offer a little more warmth, what I’ve got for you today is a list of 26 different concepts and plans for winter cold frames that encompass a bit more space in your garden and allow for a better collection of vegetables. So whether you’d like to grow spinach or beets, protect your flowers or even start a few seedlings early on, there’s a plan here for everyone.

Since there’s a variety of materials that can be used to construct cold frames, I’m going to split these up by the clear material used on the top of the frame. From there, the only limit is your imagination!

1.Plastic Sheeting/Soft Plastic Cold Frames

Simple Cold Frame

This particular cold frame is not elaborate, but it works quite well. Made of plywood and poly sheeting, its sloped shape allows for rain drainage while keeping the plants within warm in the cooler months of the year.



Materials: Plywood, poly sheeting, misc tools and bolts/nuts/screws.
Dimensions: 4’ wide x 4’ deep, sloped top peaks at 15”
Difficulty: Beginner to intermediate
Cost: $$


2.PVC Cold Frame

Constructed entirely of PVC and plastic sheeting, this basic PVC frame keeps warmth inside and allows ease of access through its triangular hinged roof. The plastic sheeting can be easily replaced year after year as needed.




Materials: PVC and PVC connectors, 6mil clear plastic sheeting, pipe glue
Dimensions: 4’ wide x 2’ 4” deep
Difficulty: Beginner
Cost: $


3.Lightweight Lid Cold Frame

This fascinating, lightweight cold frame was designed for use with an temperature-controlled automatic opening vent, and it’s really cool!

If you’re concerned that your plants will get too warm while you’re at work during the day, this design is perfect, as the lid will open itself and close itself in response to the ambient temperature.



Materials: Lightweight wood, 8mil vinyl sheeting, PVC pipe, automatic venting control (like a Univent)
Dimensions: 3’ wide x 6’ long
Difficulty: Intermediate
Cost: $$$


4.Cold Frame Tent

If you have existing raised beds, all you need is the top for this to rest on top of your beds. If you don’t, add a box around your garden plot, and with very little difficulty, you are set up to endure the weather while still growing plants to a reasonable height!


Materials: Heavy plastic sheeting, lumber, a hardwood dowel, screws or nails
Dimensions: Variable depending on need
Difficulty: Beginner to intermediate
Cost: $-$$


5.Sleek & Efficient Cold Frame

This functional cold frame is intended to be constructed for an already-existing raised bed. While a slight variation to the design would enable runoff from rains to move more easily, it’s a great option for people in cold but less-rainy environments just as it is already.



Materials: Lumber, heavy plastic sheeting, screws or nails
Dimensions: 4’ wide x 8’ deep x 15” tall
Difficulty: Beginner
Cost: $


6.PVC Cold Frame Hoop House

This arched hoop house-style cold frame is not elaborate, but it does the trick! Made to fit just inside the walls of a raised bed, the two plywood ends keep wind out of the tunnel, and the plastic sheeting overtop allows plenty of light to reach your plants.


Materials: PVC, plastic sheeting, plywood, 2×3 studs, misc screws and other assorted equipment
Dimensions: Variable, can be adjusted to fit most raised beds
Difficulty: Beginner to intermediate
Cost: $-$$

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7.PVC Cold Frame Hoop House

This one does not come with exact plans, so it takes a little bit of plotting to recreate it. However, it’s a simple enough structure. It’s adorably cute, as it looks like a little house, and it’s incredibly useful, as only half the lid needs to be lifted to access the plants inside or to provide ventilation.


Materials: Lumber, plastic sheeting, hinges, nails or screws, and a chain with spring for each end
Dimensions: 66” long x 24” wide
Difficulty: Intermediate
Cost: $$

8.Plastic Bottle Cold Frame

Do you find that plastic water bottles build up in your house or recycling bin? Well, save some, and you too can create this unusual, but effective cold frame! If you add a little silicone caulk between the bottles, you can make it completely enclosed, or you can leave the gaps to allow some vent space. Whichever you do, this reuse project makes the most of what would otherwise be landfill fodder or recycling plant materials.


Materials: Empty plastic bottles, wood doweling or slats, lumber, screws or nails, silicone caulk (optional)
Dimensions: Variable depending on size desired
Difficulty: Beginner to intermediate

9.Hard Plastic, Acrylic, or Plexiglass Cold Frames

Quick ‘n Easy Cold Frame

This cold frame is a really interesting design. While not the least expensive option due to the polycarbonate panels used for the top of the frame, it’s definitely one of the longest-lasting options, and is resistant to tearing or breakage of the sunlight panel. This style will last for years and years of use!



Materials: Translucent polycarbonate panels and their fasteners, lumber, silicone caulking, hinges and misc screws
Dimensions: 8’ wide x 4’ deep x 1’ tall
Difficulty: Intermediate
Cost: $$$


10.Portable Cold Frame

If you don’t have raised beds, this cold frame might be a great option for you. Brick forms a flat support at the base and helps to keep the soil warmed by the sun. The box is inexpensive plywood, and the only expensive part is clear acrylic glazing panels which you can pick up at most big-box hardware stores. The acrylic resists ice buildup, which adds an extra layer of protection.


Materials: Acrylic glazing, plywood, bricks, screws, hinges
Dimensions: 61” wide x 37 ½” deep x 24” tall
Difficulty: Beginner to intermediate
Cost: $$


11.Plexiglass Cold Frame

This plexiglass-topped cold frame offers a rigid surface that will repel snow and rain, but which also will allow plenty of light through to the plants below. It’s not the cheapest option, but it’s one of the strongest on the list! You can also modify this to use an old door in lieu of the plexiglass if you’d like.


Materials: Plexiglass sheeting, lumber, hinges and assorted screws/tools
Dimensions: 6’ wide x 3’ deep, but can be variable if using old door instead of plexiglass
Difficulty: Beginner to intermediate
Cost: $$


12.Raised Bed Cold Frame

Designed to sit on top of a 4’x4’ raised bed, this cold frame is an easy build and works extremely well. The sloped lid provides rain runoff. Best of all, the whole thing can be lifted off the raised bed when the weather is warmer, as it’s fairly lightweight.


Materials: Lumber, acrylic sheets, screen door pneumatic closers, misc screws and hinges
Dimensions: Fits overtop a 4’ x 4’ raised bed
Difficulty: Beginner
Cost: $$


13.Dead Simple Cold Frame

As the name would imply, this cold frame is dead simple to build. The most complex part of the entire build is getting the angled top right. Otherwise, it’s something that can easily be knocked together in a couple hours’ time!



Materials: Lumber, greenhouse plastic, misc screws
Dimensions: 8’ wide x 4’ deep x 25” tall
Difficulty: Beginner
Cost: $$

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14.Glassless Cold Frame

On occasion, you can find old skylight domes that have been removed because they’ve started to leak at the sides. But these don’t have to be thrown away! Give them new life by using the dome as a top for a cold frame! A simple box base supports the skylight dome, allowing you to grow your plants right underneath.


Materials: Old skylight dome, lumber, screws
Dimensions: Depends on size of skylight dome
Difficulty: Beginner
Cost: $$


15.Cold Frame Table

This cold frame actually sits up above the ground, like a table, and is perfect for starting seeds in the winter! With a clear acrylic sheet on top, plenty of light hits the inside, and there’s a handy shelf underneath which provides a little extra storage space. Best of all, when it’s not in use as a cold frame, it can be repurposed as a handy potting table. The instructions are in a handy video format.


Materials: Clear sheet acrylic, lumber, screws or nails, hinges
Dimensions: 2’ wide x 3’ deep x 38” tall
Difficulty: Intermediate
Cost: $$

16.Glass Topped Cold Frames

Salvaged Window Cold Frame

If you’ve redone the windows in your house recently, or have a store locally who sells salvaged pane windows, this project is for you!

This makes a beautiful addition to the winter garden, and the panes of glass easily keep snow from reaching your fragile plants.



Materials: Salvaged window, lumber, misc bolts/hinges, tools
Dimensions: Variable, depends on size of salvaged window
Difficulty: Beginner to intermediate
Cost: $$

17.Old Window Cold Frame

Another idea using salvaged windows, this cold frame is built much taller, enabling it to be used for larger plants. The windows fold open from the center to the outsides, making it surprisingly easy to vent on a warmer day.



Materials: Salvaged window panes, lumber, misc bolts/hinges, tools
Dimensions: Variable, depends on size of salvaged windows
Difficulty: Beginner to intermediate
Cost: $$

18.Compact DIY Cold Frame

This smaller cold frame uses a single-pane reclaimed window as its top, and 2×6 boards to make up the sides. Thicker than most plywood frames, it does a really good job at keeping warmth inside!



Materials: Reclaimed window, lumber, hinges and misc screws
Dimensions: Depends on window, but example is 32”x32”
Difficulty: Beginner
Cost: $

19.Missouri Extension Cold Frame

Not only does this plan provide guidance in building a serviceable cold frame, but it teaches you how to build a “hotbed”, where more material (generally compost) is piled up around the sides of the cold frame to add extra insulation. Hotbeds are fantastic in very cold environments, as the warmth of the compost itself will keep the plants safer.


Materials: Glass sash, polyethylene or fiberglass for the top, lumber for the rest, needs hinges and assorted screws
Dimensions: 3’ wide by 6’ deep
Difficulty: Beginner
Cost: $$

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20.Vertical Cold Frame

This vertical cold frame is constructed almost completely of repurposed window frames, making it a great upcycling project as well! Built to rest against a wall, it is half-greenhouse, half-cold frame, and all very useful.



Materials: Reclaimed windows, lumber, misc hinges and screws
Dimensions: Variable depending on windows used
Difficulty: Intermediate
Cost: $


21.Pallet and Window Cold Frame

This upcycled pallet and window cold frame might be free, if you have a source of used pallets and windows! With a little ingenuity, you can have a very workable cold frame that will offer lots of protection to your plants for very little cash outlay.




Materials: Old pallets, reclaimed windows, nails or screws
Dimensions: Variable depending on parts available
Difficulty: Beginner
Cost: $


22.Brick and Window Cold Frame

Using cinderblocks or bricks and old windows, you can construct a cold frame that can easily be broken down into its component parts once the cold season is over, and stored away for future use. It’s nothing fancy, but protecting your plants does not have to be!



Materials: Cinderblocks or bricks, reclaimed windows
Dimensions: Variable depending on window size
Difficulty: Beginner
Cost: $


23.Hinged-Top Cold Frame

This great cold frame looks fantastic in the garden, and can be made using a wide variety of materials. While they used glass panels for theirs, you can do it with UV-resistant Lexan or plexiglass just as well. It does require a little more skill to build, but when it’s in place, it looks finished and clean.


Materials: Glass (alternately Lexan or plexiglass), lumber, dado set, screws or nails, hinges, misc other equipment
Dimensions: Variable, depends on size you need
Difficulty: Intermediate

So, if you want to have fresh lettuce or spinach all winter, would like to keep those flowers from freezing, or just want to experiment with early seed starting, there’s a cold frame here for everyone! Do you use a cold frame for winter gardening, and if so, did you build your own? Tell us all about your frame in the comments!

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16 Ancient House Designs That You Can Build Really Cheap (Potentially For Free)

16 Ancient House Designs That You Can Build Really Cheap (Potentially For Free)

Want to learn how to build a cheap house? Look no further. Let me ask you; how would your life change if you never had to pay rent or interest on a mortgage again? I bet it would take a significant weight off your shoulders. It sure would for me.

You’re not alone, in fact today most people in “civilized” parts of the world don’t own their homes but are indebted to banks or rent from a landlord. But it has not always been this way, as Henry David Thoreau so truthfully writes in his book Walden:

In the savage (Native American) state every family owns a shelter as good as the best, and sufficient for its coarser and simpler wants; but I think that I speak within bounds when I say that, though the birds of the air have their nests, and the foxes their holes, and the savages their wigwams, in modern civilized society not more than half the families own a shelter. In the large towns and cities, where civilization especially prevails, the number of those who own a shelter is a very small fraction of the whole. The rest pay an annual tax or this outside garnment of all, become indispensible summer and winter, which would buy a village of Indian wigwams, but now helps to keep them poor as long as they live.

Is this the best humanity can do?

Is it impossible to imagine a future where humans, just as other animals, own their shelter free and clear and don’t have to pay a “tax” their whole lives just to stay protected from the elements?

Of course not. This is crazy!

In the list below you’ll find examples of homes that “savage” people throughout the world built with their own hands using locally available materials that Nature provided for free. No mortgage or rent required.

Most of the examples on this list are small house designs. They are small because a small house takes less fuel to heat, less time and building materials to build, and for some of the more portable designs a small home is much easier to move.

What you take away from this list is up to you, but I have no doubt there’s a lot to learn from how our ancestors lived in harmony with their surroundings and adapted perfectly to their environments, no matter how harsh.

1. The Tipi

Tipis (also spelled Teepees) are tent-like American Indian houses used by Plains tribes. A tepee is made of a cone-shaped wooden frame with a covering of buffalo hide, and originally they were up to 12 feet high.

Like modern tents, tepees are carefully designed to set up and break down quickly. As a tribe moved from place to place, each family would bring their tipi poles and hide tent along with them.

Plains Indians migrated frequently to follow the movements of the buffalo herds, and it’s said an entire Plains Indian village could have their tipis packed up and ready to move within an hour.

2. The Lavvu

Sami family infront of their lavvu, 1900

The Lavvu has a design similar to a Native American tipi but is less vertical and more stable in high winds. It’s a temporary shelter used by the Sami people living on the treeless plains of northern Scandinavia, and it’s made of wooden poles which are covered in reindeer hides or, more recently, textile.

Modern designs of the lavvu have replaced the wooden poles with aluminium poles and heavier textiles with lighter fabrics. Today some people choose to heat the lavvu with an oven instead of an open fire and that has the benefit of producing less smoke, but it also produces less light making it quite dark inside.

3. The Wigwam

Wigwams, sometimes also known as birchbark houses, are Native American houses used by Algonquian Indians in the woodland regions.

These shelters are small, usually 8-10 feet tall, and they’re formed with a frame of arched poles, most often wooden, which are covered with some sort of roofing material ranging from grass, bark, brush, mats, reeds, hides or textile. The frame can be shaped like a dome, like a cone, or like a rectangle with an arched roof. The curved surfaces make it an ideal shelter for all kinds of conditions, and while wigwams are not portable they’re small and easy to build.

A first hand account from 1674 of Gookin, who was superindendent of the Indian subject to the Massachusetts Colony, says…

“The best of their houses are covered very neatly, tight and warm, with barks of trees, slipped from their bodies at those seasons when the sap is up, and made into great flakes, with pressure of weighty timber, when they are green….The meaner sort are covered with mats which they make of a kind of bulrush and are also indifferently tight and warm, but not so good as the former….Some I have seen, sixty or a hundred feet long and thirty feet broad….I have often lodged in their wigwams, and found them as warm as the best English houses.”

4. The Hogan

A hogan is the primary, traditional shelter of the Navajo people. It can be round, cone-shaped, multi-sided, or square; with or without internal posts; timber or stone walls and packed with earth in varying amounts or a bark roof for a summer house. Anything goes really.

The hogans of old are also considered pioneers of energy efficient homes: “Using packed mud against the entire wood structure, the home was kept cool by natural air ventilation and water sprinkled on the dirt ground inside. During the winter, the fireplace kept the inside warm for a long period of time and well into the night. This concept is called thermal mass.”

In 2001 the Hogan began seeing a revival with a joint-venture of a partnership involving the Navajo Nation, Northern Arizona University, the US Forest Service and other private and public partners.

5. The Burdei

The burdei dates back as far as 6000 years and it’s a type of half-dugout shelter somewhat between a sod house and a log cabin, usually with a floor that’s 1 – 1.5 meters under ground level.

This type of shelter is native to the Carpathian Mountains and forest steppes of eastern Europe but has seen use in North America as well by many of the earliest Ukrainian Canadian settlers as their first home in Canada at the end of the 19th century and by Mennonites from Imperial Russia who settled in the Hillsboro region of Kansas.

The March 20, 1875, issue of the national weekly newspaper Frank Leslie’s Illustrated Newspaper described the structures:

…is the quaint brand-new village of Gnadenau, where there are some twenty small farmers, who have built the queerest and most comfortable cheap houses ever seen in the West, and with the least amount of timber, being merely a skeleton roof built on the ground and thatched with prairie-grass. They serve for man and beast, being divided on the inside by a partition of adobe..

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7. The Barabara

A barabara were the traditional shelter used by the Alutiiq people and Aleuts, the indigenous people of the Aleutian Islands. Similar to the Burdei, the barabara lay partially underground like an earth lodge or pit-house so they could withstand the high forces of wind in the Aleutian chain of islands.

8. The Clochán

A Clochán is a dry-stone hut with a corbelled roof, commonly associated with the south-western Irish seaboard. Dry-stone is a building method where you use stones without any mortar to bind them together, and these structures get their strength from compressional forces and the interlocking of the stones.

Clocháns are most commonly round beehive huts and the walls are very thick, up to 1.5 metres. Some Clocháns are not completely built of stone, and may have had a thatched roof.

9. The Log Cabin

Some of the first log structures were built in Northern Europe many thousands of years ago, and they’re most commonly associated with Scandinavia and Eastern Europe.

They’re built out of logs laid on top of each other horizontally, with notches at both ends to form weather tight corners. The thick solid wood provide much better insulation over a timber frame covered with skins, boards, or shingles.

With suitable tools and logs, a log cabin can be erected (and disassembled) from scratch in days by a family but it can stand for potentially hundreds of years. In fact, not far from where I live you’ll find one of Sweden’s best preserved old farms with log structures built in the 1700’s that’s still in good condition.

Just as with the Clochán, the log cabin gets its structural integrity from compressional forces, and a log cabin tends to slightly compress as it settles over a few months or years.

10. The Long House

Longhouses have been built all over Europe, Asia and the Americas, but may be most commonly associated with the Iroquois tribes in North America, as well as with the Norse (better known as the Vikings) in Scandinavia.

They are built similarly to wigwams, with pole frames and bark covering. The main difference is that longhouses are much, much larger. Longhouses could be 200 feet long, 20 feet wide, and 20 feet high.

Smaller longhouses housed one or several multi-generational families while larger ones could house an entire clan– as many as 60 people!

11. The Bamboo House


Tahitian bamboo house, c. 1902

Not a house design but rather an excellent building material, bamboo has a high strength-to-weight ratio useful for structures. It grows fast, it’s light-weight, and is a sustainable source of building material.

In its natural form, bamboo as a construction material is traditionally associated with the cultures of South Asia, East Asia and the South Pacific, to some extent in Central and South America,

12. The Pueblo

Pueblos are adobe house complexes used by the Pueblo Indians of the Southwest. They’re modular, multi-story houses made of adobe (clay and straw baked into hard bricks) or of large stones cemented together with adobe.

A whole pueblo housing comples can house an entire clan, with each adobe unit being home to one family much like a modern apartment. These houses can last for dozens of generations or longer in a warm, dry climate.

13. The Earthen House

Turf house in Sænautasel, Iceland.

In the old days you’d find several types of earthen houses around the world, including Native American houses such as the Navajo hogans, Sioux earth lodges, pit houses of the West Coast and Plateau, as well as subarctic sod houses in Alaska, Canada and on Iceland in the Atlantic.

These are all semi-subterranean houses, sheltered by the surrounding earth on three or four sides with a roof on top. The main benefit of the earthen house is that you’re sheltered from both cold and wind by the earth, and if you face large windows towards the south you can potentially heat your home 100% passively from the sun.

14. The Igloo

Igloos are snow houses used by the Inuit (Eskimos) of northern Canada. Igloos are dome-shaped shelters built from the snow, with large blocks of ice set in a spiral pattern and packed with snow to form the dome.

You’d be surprised how warm an igloo can get when it’s freezing outside! “On the outside, temperatures may be as low as −45 °C (−49 °F), but on the inside the temperature may range from −7 °C (19 °F) to 16 °C (61 °F) when warmed by body heat alone.” – Cornell University, 2003

15. The Yurt

The yurt is a portable shelter used by nomads in the steppes of Central Asia for at least three thousand years. You read that correctly. 3000 years. Wow.

Traditional yurts consist of an expanding wooden circular frame carrying a felt cover, and complete construction takes as little as 2 hours.

15. The Walipini

Not as ancient as the other shelters on this list, the walipini is still worth a mention because it’s such a simple yet brilliant idea, and it can be built for as little as $300.

A walipini is an underground greenhouse that lets you grow food year-round, and the idea was first developed in Bolivia, South America. It uses the same earth sheltering principles as many of the ancient house designs on this list.

What makes the walipini better than hoop houses and green houses? First, by locating the growing area 6’- 8’ underground you take advantage of the constant temperature of the earth below the frost level. Second, you can capture and store the daytime solar radiation in the surrounding earth which then radiates back into the greenhouse during the cold winter nights.

What Can We Learn?

You might not want to move into a tipi any time soon, but there are still a lot to learn from our ancestors.

These ancient house designs are better than modern homes in many aspects because they were adapted specifically for their environments. The homes in the Arizona desert looked much different from the homes in the Alaskan tundra, and nomadic people had different needs than agricultural people.

The point is that our ancestors were as One with their environments and co-existed with Nature. These people were native to the land, while modern man is more like an invasive species that does not know its place in Nature.

But, maybe most of all, these homes illustrate that the builders knew when enough was enough. They were clear about the purpose of building a home, i.e. to stay protected from the elements and have a safe place to sleep, rather than constantly expending their life energy on trying to build bigger and fancier homes.

Here’s a closing thought from Henry David Thoreau:

It is possible to invent a house still more convenient and luxurious than we have, which yet all would admit that man could not afford to pay for. Shall we always study to obtain more of these things, and not sometimes to be content with less? Shall the respectable citizen thus gravely teach, by precept and example, the necessity of the young man’s providing a certain number of superfluous glow-shoes, umbrellas, and empty guest champers for empty guests, before he dies? Why should not our furniture be as simple as the Arab’s or the Indian’s?

Why indeed?